miss_philomena: (Default)
 Had a sewing day yesterday at [personal profile] robinsnest 's lovely home, and traced off patterns for Gettysburg! I traced off and sized up Robin's paletot pattern so I am ready to go on that. It's a fairly simple pattern too, only fronts, backs, and sleeves, so I anticipate it going together fairly quickly.

I also traced of TV's 1860s dress bodice pattern. I plan to use the same pattern as the base for both of my day dresses. For the figured silk check I plan to do an asymmetrical/faux-double breasted bodice, and will leave the the points at the waist alone. For the other day dress I haven't finalized what it'll look like, but I'll probably alter it into a single point at the front, and possibly more of a peplum look with a fuller back, rather than just the original points. We'll see.

TV's massively giant sleeves also strike again in this pattern. The instructions on the sleeve heads say to gather them in to fit the sleeve, which I definitely did not want for this. I want a smooth fitted sleeve head. The TV instructions for measuring what size sleeve I need would've had me cutting the largest size, which would've given me a massively gigantic sleeve. Instead I measured the armhole of the bodice and went with the sleeve size which would give me only about an inch and a half to ease in, which is much more reasonable, and also happened to be the smallest size for the sleeve pattern pieces.

I've got the Past Patterns 1863 evening bodice for my ball gowns, and I split all the pieces apart, but I ran out of time yesterday to trace them. My goal for the week is to trace it off, and make a mock up of both the day and evening bodice, and then I can start altering them. I'm going to be down in D. C. next week, so when I get back I plan to start sewing. My July goal is to get the figured silk day dress done, and the paletot, and at least start on the icicle fancy dress. I bought a ton of clearanced tiny rhinestone buttons from Joanns that I plan to add into the organza poofs I'll trim the icicle dress with, to give it extra sparkle.


Oct. 15th, 2012 06:35 pm
miss_philomena: (Default)
The PA Renn Faire yesterday was a lot of fun. I was feeling rather yucky in the morning, a growing migraine and some nausea to go with it, but I ignored that and went anyway, and I'm glad I did. By the time I got to the faire after the two hour drive I was feeling fine anyway. I'd never been to the faire before and it was huge. Lots of walking up and down hills, which actually reminded me of bing in Germany last summer, and all the walking tours I did there. And speaking of Germany, I was the token German of the group, and I even had the award to prove it. I got several comments on it from random people, cast members and faire visitors alike. I need to steal pictures from other people, still.

Now, as for my next project, I'm intending to make a new pair of stays for next Thursday. Pennsbury Manor has Harvest Days, which means too many school groups coming through, and I'll be demonstrating Dorset buttons for them. Can I make stays in nine days? I'm feeling hopeful, but I still need to figure out some type of boning too. Tonight's plan is to draft up the 1680s stays from Corsets and Crinolines.
miss_philomena: (pierrot side)
So the stays workshop in Williamsburg this past weekend was awesome. I had fun and I feel like I learned a lot. AND I've got the start of a lovely pair of 1780s stays, and I feel more confidant about drafting up some earlier stays as well. Knowing how they should fit and where they should be was always my biggest stumbling block, after all. I definitely intend to take more workshops with B&T in the future. I also plan to use the same pattern, once I finish the blue stays I started in the workshop, for the yellow silk stays I bought fabric for years ago.

Other news: Apparently the Met's website and Chrome don't get along? Or is that just me? I have no problem browsing the Met in Safari, but in Chrome I get the 'down for maintenance' thing all the time. But anyway. I've already picked out what I'd like to make for the Titanic exhibit at the Franklin Institute in January, though I probably won't start working on it until December. I still like having a plan, though, and this way I can keep an eye out for fabric. This adorable little dress is what I have in mind. I'm trying to decide if I want to keep it black or go with a different, but still dark, color. It'd probably be easiest to find black taffeta and chiffon/gauze that aren't too far off from each other, and I have tons of black velvet ribbon that I can do the edging with. I also have four or five yards of some amazingly gorgeous azure blue silk velvet that I'd like to make a cocoon coat with, and black won't clash with that. But I've got time to make final decisions on that as well~

Isn't it cute?
miss_philomena: (pierrot fan)

Playing around with honeycomb smocking for a sun dress~ I got the idea from [livejournal.com profile] koshka_the_cat's 1840s gown, but I wanted an increasing size of diamonds on the top of the skirt, so I printed out some polar graph paper. This is the 1/5" scale, a little over a quarter circle to start with. I have a lot of math to do before I can start on the actual dress. I want the finished skirt to be a full circle and the finish smocking is about half the length of what it started at, so I'm probably going to do an eight panel gored skirt to get the finished circle shape. Here goes nothing!


Jun. 5th, 2012 04:14 pm
miss_philomena: (Default)
Did I just make a Spoonflower account just so I can make this dress? Yes, yes I did.
miss_philomena: (1875 train)
Two awesome things happened today.

1) I got into the Burnley & Trowbridge stays class in September! \o/ I was first on the waitlist, and someone cancelled, so I'm in~

2) The (second) sari I ordered for my Titanic dinner gown arrived today. I've already got it cut apart and mostly draped, but I need to finish the underdress before I actually finish up the draping of it. It's a net sari, and I wasn't sure if I'd match the color for the underdress or go with black, but black won out, so it'll be made of the black silk charmeuse I've had in the stash for a few years now. I'm still trying to decide if I want to line the skirt or not, but I think, since I'm not doing a train on the silk, I'm going to skip lining. I think I'll just do a petticoat for it.

In the slightly less awesome realm of things, I'm almost finished with the green striped gown. I just need to sew the last few hooks and eyes into the bodice.
miss_philomena: (Default)
The green dress is almost finished. I just need to do the last bits of tacking down the binding in the bodice and add the closures and buttons. The skirts are completely finished, and even have actual skirt hooks for closing, so I won't be safety pinning myself into it for once.

I'm about go to start on the white and red dress too. I think all the fabric is done drying by now. I also decided rather than try and find white eyelet with red embroidery, it's just going to be a fully white dress with a red sash.

Then my sari for my Titanic dinner gown should be arriving tomorrow, so fingers crossed~ It's only taken me a month and a half to get it, after the first one I ordered was damaged in processing and I had to pick out a new one. Dx

And finally~

I'm teaching a class at Dress U, first thing on Friday afternoon, 4pm-7pm. It's how to make knit beaded Victorian (and earlier and later) purses. Only two people signed up for it, but that should make things go faster and easier, I hope. Dress U itself says you can't get into the class day of, but I was planning on making some extra kits for it anyway, so I have no problem accepting extra people as long as they pay for it. We'll see, I guess~


May. 20th, 2012 07:10 pm
miss_philomena: (Default)
taking a short break from the green gown, I put some thought to what I want for the Gibson girl pool party, and I think I'm going to go with more of an early teens day gown, something like this dress though with a red and white color scheme instead. (and trim rather than embroidery, with time constraints) And I picked up a red hat earlier that with some basic alterations should work quite well~
miss_philomena: (Default)
get something sewn and wearable by dinner. I think I'm gonna go for a smaller bustle and a petticoat or two for the blue and copper outfit. And possibly the yoke for the skirt itself. But I'm gonna hold off on cutting the actual silk itself until I get the bodice patterned too, to make sure I don't run out of fabric.
miss_philomena: (Default)
but I did take pictures of what I picked up in NYC today~

The main focus of the day was getting fabric for Mom's dress for the Titanic dinner. She's going with this Liberty of London gown from the Met. She decided to go with a nice light sage green for the color, and we found some lovely silk charmeuse for it.

As for me, I picked up a wild purple and blue dupioni. I'm thinking of a combination of this and this for it. I don't know when I'm going to do it, but probably not for Dress U.

On the other hand, I did pick up fabric for something I am going to do for Dress U. I got this striped blue and copper silk a few months ago, but there was only three and a half yards, so it got binned while I contemplated what to do with it. I finally decided what to do for the Mad Hatter tea party, so I grabbed the solid copper silk today for my idea. The color match really is a lot better than it looks in this picture. So anyway, what I want to do is basically this gown with some slight differences, make it a bit steampunkish. I'm only going to do one tier on the skirt, so it'll be knee length instead, and the bodice/collar might be a bit different as well. I'll figure that out when I actually start working on it. And this also means I'll need to make myself a short bustle, as I only have my long lobstertail bustle and the 1872 hooped bustle from Corsets and Crinolines.

And lastly, we hit a couple of the stores in the wholesale district to pick up some jewelry. I grabbed a couple nice choker sets, as well as some hair pins, and lastly an adorable pair of fascinators. The one looks kind of blue in this picture, but it's actually bright purple.

And that was today \o/
miss_philomena: (1875 train)
I'm so horribly behind with the sewing I need for Dress U. x_x I need to make something for the Titanic dinner, Let Them Eat Crepes, the Gibson girl pool party, and possibly something for the Mad Tea Party if I don't decide to go with my red striped bustle instead. I know what I'm doing for Gibson girl already (something like this), and I've got most of an idea for Titanic as well, but I've planned nothing at all yet for Crepes.

Anyway, Titanic gown link parking:

This is the biggest inspiration so far, I think.

Though this is a strong second place.

This as well

And finally this.

But basically, I've discovered I really like Callot Soeurs gowns a lot. I have four or five other ones of theirs bookmarked as well for this. Also, I want to make a purse like this one, which is also theirs, if I can find a lace that would work.

I think that's all for now....
miss_philomena: (pierrot side)
Is it wrong to plan an outfit around a certain type of hat? More specifically, this type of hat?

It's big and over the top and at the same time simple. I love it. I might even attempt to do it in straw if I have enough narrow braid to do it.

I'll probably go for either a zone front like Hilary Swank is wearing with it, or perhaps some type of round gown. I'm still deciding. It depends on what the stash says to me.
miss_philomena: (Default)
Everyone else is talking about Victorian fancy dress costumes, and I can't help it. I need to jump in, even though I won't be at Costume College. I'm liking this one the most. A Victorian take on Italian Renn is what it looks like to me. Kind of like a Victorian Juliet. I'll have to poke through the stash as I sort out what will go into storage and see what jumps out at me color-wise. I'm thinking maybe ivory? With a nice deep burgundy for the sleeve puffs and underskirt.

And a nice coppery-brown leather for the belt/pouch, which I just happen to have already...

Miss Scott in costume, Montreal, QC, 1881


May. 18th, 2011 11:04 pm
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
CADD is hitting and it's hitting hard. It tends to come when I'm past the halfway point of a project, and all I want is to play with the next pretty thing. I think the only reason why I haven't started working on my blue striped summer bustle is the fact that I haven't unpacked my 1872 bustled crinoline yet, and I need to actually measure out the skirt lengths, because I'm not doing a train for this dress. And by no train I mean I'm probably going to do just a sweep, about 4" long in the back. I just need to see by how much I need to shorten my 7-gore pattern side back and back pieces, because I drafted it for about the 16" train as seen in my icon. (Yes I realize I could just cut the back 12" shorter. But I want to double check.)

I also want to make a nicer petticoat than the plain white one I wore at CosCon. I have a few yards of eyelet, so I'll probably use that. I think I'm going to do a yoke for that to keep the very top of the bustle smooth.

But I think most of all I'm in an accessories mood. I just dug through a bag of vintage gloves I have and pulled out four pairs that fit me. One pair is white fabric, two pairs are kid leather, one white and one pink, and a lovely suede pair that are burgundy. I'm also really itching to make some more hats. IDK, they're just so much fun. I've got a blue straw hat I picked up a while back from Goodwill that I'm going to use to make a little topper hat to go with my summer bustle. And even though I don't really have anything to wear with it I'm in the mood to make a ridiculously large hat, either something like the giant purple hat Kate Winslet wore in her first scene in Titanic, or a large high-crowned 1780s hat. We'll see, I suppose~


May. 11th, 2011 10:15 pm
miss_philomena: (1875 train)
so scrapbook isn't working with the lj.app or something? Not cool, LJ. Your force me to email my pictures to myself just so I can upload them here. 365 pics will have to wait until LJ decides to behave again.

But anyway, stripy natural form update! Okay technically it's not an update because I haven't done anything else, but I took a picture! :D It still needs hemming, but that shouldn't take too long. And then all I really need to do is the bodice! I still need to cut the flatlining for that before I can piece it. I'm flatlining the main body with the same green striped cotton I used for the underskirt, and I'm gonna bagline the sleeves with probably some white silk taffeta I have in my stash. And I'm still trying to decide exactly how I want to trim this. Because the silk itself is such a bold design, I think I might only do some ivory lace around the neckline and end of the sleeves. And I think I'm gonna do either ivory or gold buttons on the bodice too.

big pic )

Now, for a bit of planning~ I think the next thing I'm going to work on is a summer bustle gown a la the 1872 dress I posted the other day. I was originally thinking of some type of floral print like the original, but then I remembered I have a lovely blue striped cotton gauze in my stash. It always comes back to stripes, what can I say? So not only to I want a nice light summer gown, I want it for something specific. That being Belvidere's Victorian Days this September. Which also means I'll probably need a white or light colored corset, instead of my black one. >_> But I've got a pattern I already like, so I'd just need to make another one.

ETA: works so much better when I get the html right >_>;;
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream fan)
The Met's website is such an amazing, evil thing, isn't it? xD There are so many things on my someday list from their collection, and I just want to toss up a list so I can remember for myself.

1. Robe à la Polonaise ca. 1787 I love love love the golden yellow damask trimmed with blue taffeta combination. And the shawl collar and ruched oversleeve. I just love the whole thing, though I think when I do make this style I'll make it a bit more fitted than this.

2. Visiting Dress, 1867 It's striped. It's transitional early bustle. It's floofy and over the top. Do I really need to say anything else? :3

3. Dress, 1865-1870 I really like the shape and draping of this skirt. (The Met gave this a range of 1865-70, but I'd definitely put it closer to the end of that than the beginning, given the style of the skirt.)

4. Afternoon Dress, 1870-1875 This is definitely a dress where the fabric makes the gown. But I just love that bright blue in the brocade that's then repeated in the trim.

5. Dress, 1872 I love how light and airy and soft this looks. I really want to make a summer ensemble, with either a printed gauze like this, or just a plain organza.

6. Afternoon Ensemble, 1880-1885 This blue is such a beautiful, rich color, and the brocade, of course, is the perfect highlight with it. And I love all the mix and match pieces and the various ways it can be worn.

7. Dress, 1885-1888 I know [livejournal.com profile] koshka_the_cat is planning on making this, but I've been drooling over this down for a couple months now. The stripes! Who could say no to that?

8. Afternoon Dress, 1912 I want to do the DPP for Your Wardrobe Unlock'd, and while my first thought went to an evening gown, this one with it's deceptively simple lines (and stripes!) is lovely. I think the only thing I'd really change is the neckline. I really, really can't stand high collars, or really anything tight around the neck.

So, I've actually cut down the list from what I'd originally planned, believe it or not. But this seems like a good starting off point. xD

Oh and one last thing! I've made myself a twitter account, if anyone has one and would be interested in following it, though I don't know how often I'll use it.
miss_philomena: (mantua back)
My plaid silk arrived yesterday, and my pink and gold damask arrived today!!! I'm resisting the urge to start working with then until after this weekend, and it's very very hard. :<

I can't wait to start working on my mantua. I think I'm a bit too excited about it. >_> I'm also thinking of entering it in the historical masquerade at Costume Con. That decision isn't final yet, though.

For those of you that have done the masquerades at Costume Cons in the past- what did you do on stage for the show itself? And how detailed and technical (and long) was your documentation?
miss_philomena: (Default)
The auction for the damask I was bidding on was pulled. D: But there were six days left and bidding was almost up to my limit anyway, so even if it had run the full time, I probably would've lost it anyway. Sooooo I went looking for something else and snatched this damask as a BIN. It's pink and gold, obviously, but as the V&A mantua was a blue and silver damask in what looks like a large, repeating pattern, I figure it will do just fine. There's 8 yards of the pink and gold, which is what I was figuring on needing.

It didn't process when I first started looking at the Met's mantua, but it has a center back measurement of 104 inches. Now, going by my own measurements at 5'6, from the back of my neck to the floor is about 54 inches. That means the train of the mantua is 50 inches, or over 4 feet long. Now that's a lot of brocade dragging on the floor. But for the sake of pictures being faithful to the original, I'm going to make mine that long as well. Because of the way the Met has it draped, I think I can sneak some type of lining/backing for the train. I'm toying with the idea of flatlining it with silk organza, because it won't add much bulk. Do you have any thoughts on that, flist?

I also (finally) stopped dragging my feet about the stays I'll need for under this. My original thought was that I'd either have to use steel boning or order reed. But then I realized there might be something left over from when my dad used to re-cane chairs. His stuff was all either round or square, so I grabbed the smallest he had, which is about 1/8" diameter. (It's been hanging in the garage for who knows how many years collecting dust and dirt, so I'm soaking it in the tub overnight to get it a bit cleaner.) I'm hoping two reeds per channel will be strong enough. I might also do every fourth or fifth channel with steel anyway, to add a little extra support.

And now, to bring back an old theme~ The Mom chronicles! I convinced her to make a journal ([livejournal.com profile] gwenevereofisis) a couple weeks ago, and she's been lurking around in the comms I added her to, but apart from me she has no friends yet. D: But that's not why I'm bringing her up now. We're going to an SCA event on Saturday, and I've been helping her make a basic 6 gore kirtle. I draped a muslin on her, and then drafted the pattern off of that. We were a bit short on the teal-green wool for it, only about 4.5 yards, so I laid it out and did all the cutting and pinning, but she's done all the piecing on her own. Tomorrow we need to put in the sleeves and sew the lining in, and then it'll be picture time! And then mom will be on her own for doing all the hand sewing, i.e. the eyelets for the front lacing, the buttonholes for the sleeves, and the hem. I've got my own hand sewing to do to finish up my outfit for Saturday, after all.


Feb. 5th, 2011 12:52 am
miss_philomena: (strawberries&cream)
So there just might be 13 yards of a lovely pink and cream plaid silk shantung making it's way to me. Perhaps.

And should this fabric potentially show up in my mailbox, it just might find itself being made into something like this. And possibly a second bodice like this, so it can go for either day or evening wear. Since there is so much yardage that might be coming.

But that all depends on if this fabric is coming or not, of course.
miss_philomena: (Default)
I've got the Watteau polonaise all pieced, apart from the stomacher and sleeves, and pinned up on my dress form. (No pictures because I haven't gotten around to digging my camera out and charging it. >_>) I'm not entirely crazy with how the back of it lays over my bustle, but I think part of it is because it's only over a petticoat right now, which a) is nowhere near as full as the matching skirt will be, and b) only has a couple inches of train in the back, so it's not flaring out there to support the polonaise. I'm also toying with the idea of making Laughing Moon's train supporting bustle, which will flare out the back of the skirt and polonaise nicely. But I think that, which is not specifically needed at this point in time, will have to wait.

I've also started planning my next project as well. I've wanted to make an 18th century mantua for a while now, when the style became a bit more defined and regulated. My first plan was to style it after the 1710s mantua in the V&A, but now I'm thinking I want to go a touch earlier, before it became standard to loop the train up. And I can't deny that I've always been drawn to the Met's 1708 mantua. I've been looking at all the pictures of it for a while today, trying to figure out how exactly they arranged the poofs in the back, and I think, rather than folding the skirt back over itself and securing it at the center back waist, they either tucked the sides under, or just much lower, and then puffed a bit of the back up over it to make that big puff. You can kind of see that it was done slightly differently in the two different sets of pictures, as the train is longer in one set.

As for fabric for the mantua, I have my eye on a couple damasks on ebay, and if those fall through, I'll just look for something in New York next time I'm up there. I'd really prefer a damask or brocade, but worse comes to worse I'll use something solid. (I'm holding out for a specific damask, though, if it doesn't go too high. >_>)


miss_philomena: (Default)

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