miss_philomena: (Default)

Because the francaise dinner is only two weeks away and I really do need something better than a chemise gown to wear. >_>

I actually bought this fabric to make this mantua two years ago, but I kept putting off because hey, cutting into expensive silk brocade is a bit scary. Plus to get the mantua length right I wouldn't have enough for a matching petticoat, but after looking at a LOT of 1680s and 1690s plates and etchings, most of them didn't have a matching petticoat.

So today I finally started working on it. I'm mostly following the diagram in The Cut of Women's Clothes for the late 17th century mantua in the Met (it's labelled as 1700 in the book, the Met has it a little earlier). The diagram shows it with a stomacher and belt, which is how I have it draped at the moment, but I might change that. I do know I'm going to do shorter sleeves than what the diagram shows.

Tomorrow I'm going to baste the side body seams together so I can try it on and check the fit and lay of it, and see if I want to have a closed or open front. The only reason I hesitate to do a close front is I'm much wider than the original, and I'm not sure it'd be flattering on me. We'll see~~

I basted the center back seam to make it easier to do the rest of the tucks. The pins are just to keep the fabric underneath from wiggling around before I topstitch it, and the center neckline needs to be trimmed down still.

a couple more pics )

miss_philomena: (Default)
I spent somewhere between six and seven hours stuffing bones into my stays today, and I'm still not done. Of course it's my own fault for deciding to make a fully boned pair that has 12 pieces. :x But I took a picture of what's done so far!

76fe7d2b9e3078429abcef3e774b583f

I'm going to do the eyelets before I bone the center back pieces, so those haven't been touched yet, and I have most of the left side back panel to bone still as well, but I was tired and my hands were getting pretty sore at that point. I'm using 1/4" cane for my boning, except for the channels on either side of the eyelets, which will be steel bones. And I might put a busk in as well, but I might wait until I wear them to decide.

Recap

Oct. 15th, 2012 06:35 pm
miss_philomena: (Default)
The PA Renn Faire yesterday was a lot of fun. I was feeling rather yucky in the morning, a growing migraine and some nausea to go with it, but I ignored that and went anyway, and I'm glad I did. By the time I got to the faire after the two hour drive I was feeling fine anyway. I'd never been to the faire before and it was huge. Lots of walking up and down hills, which actually reminded me of bing in Germany last summer, and all the walking tours I did there. And speaking of Germany, I was the token German of the group, and I even had the award to prove it. I got several comments on it from random people, cast members and faire visitors alike. I need to steal pictures from other people, still.

Now, as for my next project, I'm intending to make a new pair of stays for next Thursday. Pennsbury Manor has Harvest Days, which means too many school groups coming through, and I'll be demonstrating Dorset buttons for them. Can I make stays in nine days? I'm feeling hopeful, but I still need to figure out some type of boning too. Tonight's plan is to draft up the 1680s stays from Corsets and Crinolines.

Hmm...

Jan. 16th, 2009 04:25 am
miss_philomena: (catherine full)
If (and this is a very big if, because I'm slightly suspicious of the price) what I've found is in fact silk moire, then my [livejournal.com profile] charlesii will be a topaz/cream gold instead of the light blue/grey of the portraits. Because if it does turn out to be 100% silk, then I'd be insane to pass it up even if the color isn't right. After all, who's to say my dear princess didn't have more than one moire gown?
miss_philomena: (catherine hand)
...when it was sewn ages ago?

A [livejournal.com profile] charlesii post!

Okay, I actually sewed this up back in November, but I didn't bother taking pictures until today.

The tabs need to be cut higher up on my hips, and that'll fix the big wrinkles wrapping around the sides. I also plan to cut the side piece higher along the armhole up towards the side front seam, because currently it sits at an uncomfortable and unflattering angle. But other than that, I have a working bodice mockup!

I have some yellow linen that I might use for the boned lining, for a little bit of brightness under all that grey. Either that or I might pick up some pink or blue linen to coordinate with whatever color ribbon I decide to use.

miss_philomena: (watteau)

Okay, this is an attempt to plan out what I want to do over the next three and a half months for Costume Con. Now, taking into account classes and a part-time job with my usual speed, I'm going to try for two outfits a month. Once I make a new pair of drawers and finish my fully boned stays, I won't need to factor in undies time. Anyway, here's a tentative schedule.

January:
1840s dresses x2 for Poe
18th century fully boned stays
1780s Chemise à la Reine if I can, otherwise it'll get bumped back where it fits.

February:
1872 Watteau Bustle Gown
1869 Villainess Gown, on the left

March:
1660s Catherine-Charlotte de Gramont, Princess of Monaco for [livejournal.com profile] charlesii.
Secret Project for the Masq

April:
1791 Purple Sari Pierrot Jacket and Skirt
1920s Print Silk Dress, adaptation
1957 dress

Of course, if I finish stuff faster than I plan (which I probably will), things will get bumped up. Unfortunately, my budget won't allow for the duchesse satin for the 1660s gown until March, but if I can, the April dresses will get bumped up sooner because I already have the fabric for all of them, leaving more time for the March dresses.

ETA: wow that's a lot of tags. XD

ETA2: I've put up an ij mirror account, but I'm not worried about needing it. It's there just in case. Feel free to friend it.

miss_philomena: (devil's whore hillside)
Alright, I didn't do a lot in 2008, but I also didn't start anything until September. I did knock out two complete outfits in under a week each, though, so that has to count for something.

September, 2008: The Red Stripy Bustle
While I'd had the undies sewn for a while, the dress itself I did in three days. I wanted something bright for Saloncon, and this definitely qualifies.

December, 2008: Revolution in a Week
Basically, the only parts of this I didn't make in a one week rush were my shoes, stockings, and hat blank. Upon extended wearing I've decided the front of my half-boned stays need to be recut, because currently they're a bit too short and wide across the bust. But that's for later.

And for 2009, I have quite the list.

I have ideas for a few more things, and I need at least one Vampires, Villains and Vixens outfit, but this is most definitely enough for the first half of 2009.

miss_philomena: (grey purple plaid)
Went to Philadelphia today, and picked up the velvet and buttons for my 1844 gown, among other things. So now I have everything I need for the gown itself. I was going to start the petticoats yesterday but I couldn't find my white muslin anywhere. I'll have to pick some up from Joann's tomorrow. On a slightly related note, how wide did the skirts tend to be in the 1840s? I'm half tempted to do everything on the cross grain, and just use the 5 yard piece I have for the full skirt. Otherwise, I'll just do 3 panels of the plaid, but it's only 44" wide. I just feel like that might be too narrow.

One of the other stores in Philly had the most gorgeous teal/peacock green heavy silk satin, for an amazing $19 a yard. I'm half tempted to go back and get it, even though there's probably only 3 yards or so. It'd be enough for a long-sleeved 1650s bodice, at the very least. Maybe tomorrow. It really was an amazing color, even if I do prefer the bluer end of the teal range.

Time to pass out now. *running on about 2 hours of sleep*
miss_philomena: (catherine hand)

I went pearl shopping the other day, hoping to get my jewelry sorted out and size the pearls for the bodice, and was mostly successful. I got 12mm glass pearls for my necklace. I plan to string them on some narrow bright blue silk ribbon I have, I just need to find it. I also found some teardrop glass pearls for my earrings, but they aren't as large as I'd like, and they weigh a ton. I found this site, which has large, lightweight earrings, so I might order from them at some point. And lastly, I picked sizes for the decorative pearls, and I'll be ordering those from Fire Mountain Gems once I can figure out how many 16" strands I need, which won't be for a long while.

 

the bodice pearls, on head pins to get an idea of sizing. the current earrings and the necklace pearls, waiting to be properly strung.

And on a slightly different note, I found a great book in the FIT library last week that I had to immediately buy my own copy. At the Court of Versailles: Eye-Witness Reports from the Reign of Louis XIV, by Gilette Ziegler. It's one of those books that almost all contemporary gossip, and validates Wikipedia's claim that Charlotte was in fact one of Louis' mistresses. I know there are a few others doing French ladies, so it's definitely a book I'd recommend. It's out of print (published in 1966), but Amazon had over 2000 listings for it.

miss_philomena: (catherine hand)
I ordered a swatch book from Decorative Silks, so once it arrives I'll be deciding what color I'll use for my [livejournal.com profile] charlesii dress, since silk moire is out of the question. Looking at the site, I'm between the Pistachio/Antique Gold and Saddle Grey/Gold. The Antique Gold/Champagne might be a possibility too; we'll see when the swatches arrive.

I've also started working on the pattern for this. I've decided to make separate stays and bodice, but I plan to baste the two together along the neckline, and possibly at the front point for wearing. But there are a couple other 1660s gowns I'd like to make as well, so having stays that can move from gown to gown will be much easier.

And bouncing into another century... Because they just look like so much fun, I've got almost everything I need to whip up a Chemise a la Reine. Can I just say that finding a buttercup yellow silk taffeta is surprisingly hard? In the mean time I've got cotton the color I want that will work for now. I stopped in at Greenburg and Hammer yesterday and picked up another pound of 1/4" steel boning for the pale yellow silk stays I plan to make after this pair in the McCord Museum, which I plan to wear with the chemise dress. I've also got half the boning channels sewn in the green cotton sateen stays I'm working on, and will get around to the rest at some point soon.

Does anyone know if there are any costume/period events going on in the NJ/PA area anytime soon? I want to dress up for something, but there doesn't seem to be anything.
miss_philomena: (catherine waist)
Why else would I decide to take part in [livejournal.com profile] charlesii?

After going through lots of lists of people, because I wanted to make sure I picked someone fun, I finally decided on Catherine-Charlotte de Gramont. She was the Princess of Monaco, though she and her husband spent most of their time in Paris, lady in waiting to Henrietta Anne and mistress of Louis XIV.

I found a pair of portraits for her, which made me quite happy. I think the second is a repaint of the first, because of the slight variations between the two, but I prefer the trim pattern on the second more. One and two.

Much as I would like to do it, my wallet refuses to even consider using silk moire when it's $150+ a yard. (Unless someone knows where to find it, preferably under $50/yd? Pipe dream, I know.) I'll most likely be going with a Duchesse satin, which is much more doable on my budget. I'd like to keep this under $500 total, and all those pearls I'll need won't be cheap either.

Here's hoping the place in Philly I've ordered Duchesse satin through before hasn't raised their prices.

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