miss_philomena: (Default)
As mentioned in my last post, ages ago now, I know, I made myself a new and (what I thought was) delightfully wide cage crinoline. After wandering into the TV message board, I discovered someone making 180" circumference hoops, and someone else making 210" (!!!) circ. hoops. Makes my 134" hoop seem much more respectable.

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Two of the hoops are 1/2" hooping steel from tutu dot com, the other six hoops are 1/4" spring steel from a cheap ebay bridal hoop. I'd initially planned to do it all with the 1/4" steel, but it didn't feel stable enough, so I added the two sturdier hoops, the third down, and the top one in the bag. I also put my smaller 18th century rump under the back, just to make sure it doesn't collapse or tip forward under the weight of heavier skirts, but the rump isn't quite the right shape. I'll have to make one that's a little bit fuller higher up. It's a round hoop, but one with just a little bit of back thrust, and I don't want to lose that.

My county's 4-H fair was the lat weekend in July, so this year I opted to enter my day gown from New Castle. I was marked down because apparently silk isn't a durable material. I also overheard the judge commenting after judging was finished that it wasn't an appropriate dress for a farmer's wife. I have no idea where she got the idea that it was made for that, because there was no mention of farms or wives on my entry form. All I can guess is that she assumed that's what it was meant for because the fair takes place at an historic farm. But hey, I still got best in division!


I also had someone else (not the judge) not really believe me when I said yes, even back then day dresses could be and were made of silk, no it's not an evening dress. But it was surprising the number of people that were shocked that not only did I make the dress myself (I couldn't enter it for judging otherwise, sillies!), but that I made it to wear it, and had worn it, which is why there's a small stain on one of the sleeves from a fantastic pub lunch. Ehh, whatever. Maybe next year I'll enter one of my Gettysburg dresses.
miss_philomena: (Default)
I can never work on just one project at a time. It's a curse. But I did get a new hoop, TV142 1856 walking cage crinoline, mostly assembled. I made some changes to it, mainly making the hoop wider at the bottom. TV's patterns are set up that the bottom of the hoop is the same for every size, and only the top three hoop circumferences change for differing sizes. So I took put my calculator and mathed to keep that same proportionate increases from the medium size to the extra large size. It gave me a hoop about 130" at the hem instead of 110'. Just chilling in my living room it looks comically big, but I don't care! Once I finish sewing it, because right now the hoops are just pinned to the vertical tapes, I'll take some pictures. I'll be able to use it for everything but my fancy dress, because the striped skirt silk would only just fit over it, as in only a couple inches extra, and I don't want it tight over the hoop.

I've also been doing a lot of beaded knitting and crochet lately. I joined a knit-along for a pence jug purse through the Living History Knits and Crochet Facebook group, and we're currently in week two of five. This is such a small project and it knits up quickly, leaving me feeling impatient for more directions! Of course if I were just doing this on my own with no timing, it would linger, I'm sure.

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miss_philomena: (Default)
 Had a sewing day yesterday at [personal profile] robinsnest 's lovely home, and traced off patterns for Gettysburg! I traced off and sized up Robin's paletot pattern so I am ready to go on that. It's a fairly simple pattern too, only fronts, backs, and sleeves, so I anticipate it going together fairly quickly.

I also traced of TV's 1860s dress bodice pattern. I plan to use the same pattern as the base for both of my day dresses. For the figured silk check I plan to do an asymmetrical/faux-double breasted bodice, and will leave the the points at the waist alone. For the other day dress I haven't finalized what it'll look like, but I'll probably alter it into a single point at the front, and possibly more of a peplum look with a fuller back, rather than just the original points. We'll see.

TV's massively giant sleeves also strike again in this pattern. The instructions on the sleeve heads say to gather them in to fit the sleeve, which I definitely did not want for this. I want a smooth fitted sleeve head. The TV instructions for measuring what size sleeve I need would've had me cutting the largest size, which would've given me a massively gigantic sleeve. Instead I measured the armhole of the bodice and went with the sleeve size which would give me only about an inch and a half to ease in, which is much more reasonable, and also happened to be the smallest size for the sleeve pattern pieces.

I've got the Past Patterns 1863 evening bodice for my ball gowns, and I split all the pieces apart, but I ran out of time yesterday to trace them. My goal for the week is to trace it off, and make a mock up of both the day and evening bodice, and then I can start altering them. I'm going to be down in D. C. next week, so when I get back I plan to start sewing. My July goal is to get the figured silk day dress done, and the paletot, and at least start on the icicle fancy dress. I bought a ton of clearanced tiny rhinestone buttons from Joanns that I plan to add into the organza poofs I'll trim the icicle dress with, to give it extra sparkle.
miss_philomena: (Default)
First, the Mid-Atlantic Air Museum's WWII weekend!

The usual suspects went, and like usual I will lazily link to their posts (Amanda, Alice, and will add Robin and Jess if they write something eventually). I actually arrived at the agreed upon time, everyone else rolled up an hour later. This is a huge and popular event, so parking was quite a distance away, and a school bur ride to get to the entrance!

I was feeling quite spiffy if I do say so myself. And immensely glad I decided on my way out the door to bring my sweater just in case, because it turned out to be chilly! I don't think it got over 68F. Not usual for early June around here, jsyk. For my hair I did Victory Rolls in the front, perhaps a little smaller than they could've been, but I didn't have a lot of space to work in with my hat. The back I just rolled up.

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I'm honestly a bit meh about this dress. It was much cuter in my head than in actually sewing. I had more fun with accessories instead. I picked up my hat on eBay, and the sweater is a modern one, but I spruced it up with some antique button pins and an adorable vintage (probably 50s) chain with red, white, and blue rhinestones.

The event was definitely fun, and I'd love someday to actually drive out my 1936 coupe, but when it's an hour and a half each way, and I'd need to have the car on site for setup Thursday, and not be able to get it home until Sunday, that'd require being there the whole weekend. So maybe some year further down, but 99.9% not for next year. It's been sitting for a while and needs some work anyway. But how much fun would it be, to be able to drive around with people in costume in the rumble seat in the back?

There was a flea market there, and I bought a very cute pair of mid-length yellow cotton gloves. No idea what I'll wear them with, but they were too cute to pass on, and actually fit! And completely randomly, I also bought a Victorian black crepe mourning veil. It probably won't go to Gettyburg this year, because I don't have a mourning outfit planned, nor do I have fabric for it, so it'll have to wait.

My full flickr album is here.

On a different note, this week has been a headwear week!

Headwear Headwear Headwear
While I absolutely adore my gigantic and insane silk gauze cap, it's a bit impractical for regular wear. So Monday evening I cut and started a new cap using the Kannik's Korner 1740-1820 cap pattern, and finished it Tuesday afternoon. The pattern has been in my stash for ages, along with a yard of silk organza I purchased around the same time, to make said cap. I kept it fairly simple, with a single pleated split ruffle. My construction method is not the standard hem every piece separately and then whip it all together. Instead I used the method I was taught by Janae Whitacre of Williamsburg's Margaret Hunter Millinery Shop. This method is: turn down a small seam allowance, here a hair under 1/4", on the band piece. Lay it over the pleated ruffle, then baste the pieces together, done here in black. Then cover the raw edges with a 1/4" silk ribbon, stitching through all layers on both edges of the ribbon. Repeat for the caul. This creates a single layer cap with no raw edges, and it actually gets finished in a timely manner. I constructed my giant ruffle beast cap the same way.

Headwear Headwear Headwear Headwear
My other bit of headwear this week is a spoon bonnet! It's mostly finished, and was intended to wear tomorrow for a Victorian Picnic here in Philly, but we've switched from hoops to natural form so it'll have to wait for it's first outing. I'm going to put the crown lining in after lunch, as well as the ties and curtain. But I'm going to hold off on trimming it for now, and wait until I actually need it. [personal profile] mandie_rw made the buckram frame for me, and mulled it as well, so all I had to do was cover and decorate it. I used a shot blue and pink semi-slubby dupioni for the outside, and the same pink taffeta from my gown for the big-ass hat tea earlier this year. The ties are the pink silk as well, and I'll probably put white feathers and flowers of some color on the outside eventually.
miss_philomena: (Default)
I've already written this up elsewhere, so I'm just copying it over to here so I can keep track of my plans.

Remembrance Day is in November, and unlike the usual suspects, I haven't gone to this before, so I have no wardrobe to pull from. That means I need to make almost everything!

So I'm writing up this post to a) keep track of what I'm doing, and b) make sure I don't weasel out of doing anything. As of right now I've got underwear for Gettysburg, and that's it. I have corset, chemise, pantaloons, hoops, shoes, and one spoon bonnet. I'm gonna put the list of what I need behind a cut. All the sewing!

Read more... )
miss_philomena: (Default)
Only six months after the event!

New Castle was very enjoyable, and called for everything new. There was a (very close quarters) ball Friday night, and Saturday was spent strolling around town and visiting some of the houses, and generally looking decorative. I'm going to be lazy and link to other's posts for a rundown of the event itself, again, six months ago. Amanda, Robin, and Alice.

This is long so I'm gonna put all the pictures and talk behind a cut!  )And there you have it!
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
Partially anyway. I started this dress back in late May for a picnic that got rained out, so it went on the UFO pile. A small group of us are hitting up a tea house this weekend, and I don't feel like wearing my red cotton gown. So I decided, rather than just fix/recut the left sleeve on my windowpane green silk gown, which was my first idea, that I'd pull this out and finish it.


The bodice was already mostly assembled, I just needed to sew the side seams and sew up and set the sleeves. Right now it's currently in the War & Peace asymmetrical style, as you can see. The sleeves are three parts- the short puffed sleeve, a fitted short lining, and a long fitted sleeve that's just basted in.

I pinned the front with about a 4" overlap, but I'm thinking I'm either going to have it just meet in the front, or only a very small 1" overlap, and fill it in with either a chemisette or fichu. Looking at the picture I feel like the high overlap looks too closed off. I want it more like this gown, I think. I also plan to do a dogleg closure like that gown as well, and have a round skirt. I don't have enough fabric to put three panels in the skirt like usual, so what I plan to do instead is gore the front so I can get a fuller hem, and use a full panel for the back.

Today's plan is to set the second set of sleeves, sew the waistband to the bodice, and cut and sew the skirt pieces. Tomorrow will be attaching the skirt and putting in closures. But right now it's time for an early lunch!


Sep. 12th, 2016 10:28 pm
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
picture from [livejournal.com profile] sewloud

I made a new outfit for Belvidere this past Saturday. And I mean everything. The only thing that wasn't new was my hat. Chemise, pantaloons and corset were all new. I may or may not post pictures of those some day.

Wanting a natural form summer gown, I bought 30 yards of hand block printed cotton voile on Etsy. It was the best price, being $25 for five yards, $50 for ten yards, or $70 for 30 yards. I put almost half of it into this outfit anyway, so it's just as well I bought that much!

I used one of Butterick's costume patterns for the underskirt, adding a drawstring and a tie to get the natural form shape, Truly Victorian's 362 Wash overskirt, and 462 Tail bodice. Yes, those are both technically late bustle patterns, but the overskirt pattern notes mention it being in an 1882 advertisement as well, without a bustle underneath.

I really love the outfit, I just need to do a little more work on my corset. I need to put more boning in to better support the girls, but everything I have on hand is too long at the moment. I'll get to it at some point.
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
It's after midnight as I get ready to post this, so I am now exactly 275 days away from my wedding. Insanity!

And my best friend is getting married in something like 55 days. I have no idea what I'm going to wear to hear wedding yet either. It's a cinderella's ball type theme, so I told her I'd just wear one of my Victorian ball gowns, but she was less than enthused by that idea. I have a really nice evening gown, and while it fits in the body, it's too tight now in the bust. And the boobs are the one place I haven't lost weight from as my weight has gone down. I'm trying to decide if I want to see if I can find myself a dress for under $150 or so, or just make myself something.

But that's not the point of this post! This is my 2015 in review. It was crappy in some ways, and good in others. The best of course being that my mom is still here, followed very closely by Joe proposing.

Here's what I made )

I'm also starting to plot out what I want to sew next year.

I've already decided to spend January and February making new undies for all periods. I need three chemises: 18th century, regency, and Victorian. I need pantaloons. I need to finally sew the regency stays I cut out a year ago. I need to do a little repair work on my 1780s stays, mainly replacing a couple of the broken cane bones. If possible, I want to make a new pair of fully boned stays appropriate for Pennsbury Manor. I need to decide if I want to just take in my Victorian corset, or make a new one.

I want to do pre-raphaelite/faux medieval for my birthday, which is April. I've got the fitted gown, I just need something to go over it now. I'm told one of my spring semester professors expects a fully sewn piece every week though, so we'll see how much time/energy I have outside of schoolwork for personal sewing.

Beyond that I'm not entirely sure what will be happening. I've got linen to make a new Pennsbury mantua as well, but I probably won't need it until May or June. And those don't take a ton of time to make. It'll probably come on the train with me where I can sit and hand sew for a good 80 minutes each way.

I also want to flesh out my late 18th century wardrobe. I've been doing that more than Victorian lately, and I want to keep at it while it holds my interest.

I'm hoping to move sometime in the summer, i.e. between semesters, so I'm not sure how much time I'll have for sewing in general. 2016 is going to be a very busy year in a lot of different ways.
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
What better to use for an 1860s dress than very bright lemon yellow faile? It's a cotton/rayon blend, and a little shiny, but I really don't care. I'll be visible for a mile. It'll be awesome and hilarious. I might even glow in the dark. I'm not sure yet. I've got a whole bunch of vintage navy petersham ribbon to trim it with, but I don't think that'll tone it down all that much. I'm frankenpatterning two Simplicity patterns for this bodice. I'm using the body of 3791 and the sleeves (and skirt) from 7212. I plan to make the bodice two separate layers instead of just a front overlap, and have a vest and removable jacket. I'm still trying to decide if I want the vest in a different fabric. I have ivory silk satin, but it looks too dull with the yellow, and I don't have enough white silk, unless I can find the piece that went missing. 3791 also has gigantic coat sleeves, so I'm going to use the sleeves from 7212 instead. I don't have a lot of fabric, and I'm hoping to cut an evening bodice eventually too. I'm using the 7212 skirt as well because it's straight panels rather than gores, which means less waste.

mini mom update )
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
Back in September I started planning a Regency gown I could dance in, since all my other gowns are made of silk and/or have a train. Not dancing friendly. I'd picked up some light purple cotton gauze from Jomar ages back, and decided that was perfect for a nice light ballgown. Then the reason I was going to make it last fall didn't happen, so the idea got set aside.

Anyway, with the Jane Austen ball next weekend in Alexandria, I pulled everything out and started working on it again. The basic cut of the dress is inspired by this dress in the Met's collection. I really liked the neckline and shape of the bodice.

So now it's all finished, apart from the hem! It ties in the back with two drawstrings, one at the neck and one at the waist. There's another drawstring in the front neckline, in case that needs to be pulled a little tighter as well. It's not lined at all, so all the seams are felled by hand. I plan to make a pair of long sleeves to tack in, and then with a chemisette I can wear this for Beth's tea the weekend after the ball~

IMG_2610 IMG_4708

I have a ribbon to wear with this as well, and I'm leaning towards wearing some of Taylor's flowers with it as well, but I can't decide which.A couple more pictures~ )
miss_philomena: (bib front)
With my dress 99% done, and only a buttonhole left to be made, I started on my pelisse today. I'm basing it on the striped redingote in the KCI collection. The bodice is all assembled now, and I need to dig out some scrap silk to line the sleeves so I can put those in tonight, then probably tomorrow I'll put the skirts on.


And because that's not all I did, have a couple bonnet pictures under the cut )
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)

So I didn't quite get my dress finished before the end of January. The skirt is only pinned on so I could double check the hem length. But besides this dress, I also made pantaloons, a bodices petticoat, a chemisette, and fixed my regency stays. So, I feel like I've accomplished a lot in the last few days.

Tomorrow I'll sew the skirt in, finish the waistband with the last buttonhole, and then on Monday I'll start work on the striped pelisse to go over this. I've got the pattern for it ready and waiting.

miss_philomena: (1875 train)
but I finished my gown in time for the ball at Rockwood this past Saturday!
miss_philomena: (Default)
#0 (the bonus challenge): Starting Simple
Finish a project, make a very simple garment, or something you have made before.

I dithered around for a while trying to decide what to make, when I remembered this! I started it back in May, and it then languished half-finished since then. The base is a brass-colored metal purse frame, with butter colored silk taffeta for the outer shell and frame binding, and cherry red silk dupioni for the lining. It's got a taffeta strap, and an extra strip frayed for a self-fringe for the bow. The long seam of the strap and the side seams of the bag are machine sewn, otherwise everything else is done by hand. I'll be using this purse in a couple weeks at a Victorian Ball!

IMG_4889 IMG_8240 IMG_4697

progress pictures )

miss_philomena: (Default)
The yellow bustle is (almost) wearable! I might be pinning myself into it tomorrow, because the thought of making all those buttonholes right now is not a fun one. >_> But otherwise, it's good to go~
miss_philomena: (Default)
Getting closer with the yellow dress! Originally I wanted to trim it with a nice cornflower blue, but I haven't been able to find ribbon the right color here, and I don't have time to go to either Philly or NYC and pick some up. So I'll just go with white instead, It'll be the flip of all those sheer white gowns trimmed in yellow.

So today I did the overskirt and started working on ruffles. I have the ruffle for the overskirt ready to be put on it, but I haven't pinned it on yet, let alone sewn it. But have a picture anyway! Or better yet, two~


I can't decide yet if I want to bustle the overskirt or not. I think it'll have to wait until I have my ruffles and basque to decide, so I can see the finished look.

Also, you can see just how sheer the fabric is in the bodice. I need a corset cover to hide my black corset.
miss_philomena: (1875 waist)
So I discovered working for a couple hours in the hot attic while still sick is a bad idea. Still feeling a little shakey, even an hour later. x_x

But I started on my next project, a summer bustle gown, even though summer is almost over. Summer weather isn't, at any rate. I'm using this fabric, which is a yellow and shiny sheer plaid. (Check? Windowpane? What exactly is this pattern?) I dug out my bustle skirt pattern and somehow my side back piece is missing. dklgjsklgnlskdjglsdkng So I cheated and just cut a slightly longer side front for the side back and all is good. The center back is just a full width of fabric, like I usually cut, though I still need to trim down the top into a curve. I cut this one short too, with only a sweep rather than a long train like I usually do. I've only got the back half of the skirt so far, and because it's so sheer I did French seams for it.

I plan to put ruffles the whole way up the back before I add the front half of the skirt. I just need to decide how long I want the ruffles to be. There's going to be one deep ruffle going the whole way around the bottom of the skirt, then tiers over it on the back. I'm not sure if they should be all the same size or get smaller as they go up, but I might play around and pin some of different sizes on. We'll see.

In other parts of the dress, I think I'm going to do a bodice with a belt and a basque, and I'm still thinking about what to do with the skirt front.

a slightly crappy pic of the plain skirt back )


Jun. 20th, 2012 08:49 pm
miss_philomena: (Default)
Finally posted my Dress U pics! It's a combination of my own and ones stolen from others.

I don't have pictures of Friday night and Saturday day for myself, but I did get the rest, so here's the quick list of what I wore:

Saturday Night Titanic Dinner )

Sunday Day: Let Them Eat Crepes & Mad Tea Party )

Sunday Evening: Tiaras and Jampagne )

And that's Dress U for me!


miss_philomena: (Default)

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