miss_philomena: (Default)
First, the Mid-Atlantic Air Museum's WWII weekend!

The usual suspects went, and like usual I will lazily link to their posts (Amanda, Alice, and will add Robin and Jess if they write something eventually). I actually arrived at the agreed upon time, everyone else rolled up an hour later. This is a huge and popular event, so parking was quite a distance away, and a school bur ride to get to the entrance!

I was feeling quite spiffy if I do say so myself. And immensely glad I decided on my way out the door to bring my sweater just in case, because it turned out to be chilly! I don't think it got over 68F. Not usual for early June around here, jsyk. For my hair I did Victory Rolls in the front, perhaps a little smaller than they could've been, but I didn't have a lot of space to work in with my hat. The back I just rolled up.

Untitled Untitled
I'm honestly a bit meh about this dress. It was much cuter in my head than in actually sewing. I had more fun with accessories instead. I picked up my hat on eBay, and the sweater is a modern one, but I spruced it up with some antique button pins and an adorable vintage (probably 50s) chain with red, white, and blue rhinestones.

The event was definitely fun, and I'd love someday to actually drive out my 1936 coupe, but when it's an hour and a half each way, and I'd need to have the car on site for setup Thursday, and not be able to get it home until Sunday, that'd require being there the whole weekend. So maybe some year further down, but 99.9% not for next year. It's been sitting for a while and needs some work anyway. But how much fun would it be, to be able to drive around with people in costume in the rumble seat in the back?

There was a flea market there, and I bought a very cute pair of mid-length yellow cotton gloves. No idea what I'll wear them with, but they were too cute to pass on, and actually fit! And completely randomly, I also bought a Victorian black crepe mourning veil. It probably won't go to Gettyburg this year, because I don't have a mourning outfit planned, nor do I have fabric for it, so it'll have to wait.

My full flickr album is here.

On a different note, this week has been a headwear week!

Headwear Headwear Headwear
While I absolutely adore my gigantic and insane silk gauze cap, it's a bit impractical for regular wear. So Monday evening I cut and started a new cap using the Kannik's Korner 1740-1820 cap pattern, and finished it Tuesday afternoon. The pattern has been in my stash for ages, along with a yard of silk organza I purchased around the same time, to make said cap. I kept it fairly simple, with a single pleated split ruffle. My construction method is not the standard hem every piece separately and then whip it all together. Instead I used the method I was taught by Janae Whitacre of Williamsburg's Margaret Hunter Millinery Shop. This method is: turn down a small seam allowance, here a hair under 1/4", on the band piece. Lay it over the pleated ruffle, then baste the pieces together, done here in black. Then cover the raw edges with a 1/4" silk ribbon, stitching through all layers on both edges of the ribbon. Repeat for the caul. This creates a single layer cap with no raw edges, and it actually gets finished in a timely manner. I constructed my giant ruffle beast cap the same way.

Headwear Headwear Headwear Headwear
My other bit of headwear this week is a spoon bonnet! It's mostly finished, and was intended to wear tomorrow for a Victorian Picnic here in Philly, but we've switched from hoops to natural form so it'll have to wait for it's first outing. I'm going to put the crown lining in after lunch, as well as the ties and curtain. But I'm going to hold off on trimming it for now, and wait until I actually need it. [personal profile] mandie_rw made the buckram frame for me, and mulled it as well, so all I had to do was cover and decorate it. I used a shot blue and pink semi-slubby dupioni for the outside, and the same pink taffeta from my gown for the big-ass hat tea earlier this year. The ties are the pink silk as well, and I'll probably put white feathers and flowers of some color on the outside eventually.
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
It's after midnight as I get ready to post this, so I am now exactly 275 days away from my wedding. Insanity!

And my best friend is getting married in something like 55 days. I have no idea what I'm going to wear to hear wedding yet either. It's a cinderella's ball type theme, so I told her I'd just wear one of my Victorian ball gowns, but she was less than enthused by that idea. I have a really nice evening gown, and while it fits in the body, it's too tight now in the bust. And the boobs are the one place I haven't lost weight from as my weight has gone down. I'm trying to decide if I want to see if I can find myself a dress for under $150 or so, or just make myself something.

But that's not the point of this post! This is my 2015 in review. It was crappy in some ways, and good in others. The best of course being that my mom is still here, followed very closely by Joe proposing.

Here's what I made )

I'm also starting to plot out what I want to sew next year.

I've already decided to spend January and February making new undies for all periods. I need three chemises: 18th century, regency, and Victorian. I need pantaloons. I need to finally sew the regency stays I cut out a year ago. I need to do a little repair work on my 1780s stays, mainly replacing a couple of the broken cane bones. If possible, I want to make a new pair of fully boned stays appropriate for Pennsbury Manor. I need to decide if I want to just take in my Victorian corset, or make a new one.

I want to do pre-raphaelite/faux medieval for my birthday, which is April. I've got the fitted gown, I just need something to go over it now. I'm told one of my spring semester professors expects a fully sewn piece every week though, so we'll see how much time/energy I have outside of schoolwork for personal sewing.

Beyond that I'm not entirely sure what will be happening. I've got linen to make a new Pennsbury mantua as well, but I probably won't need it until May or June. And those don't take a ton of time to make. It'll probably come on the train with me where I can sit and hand sew for a good 80 minutes each way.

I also want to flesh out my late 18th century wardrobe. I've been doing that more than Victorian lately, and I want to keep at it while it holds my interest.

I'm hoping to move sometime in the summer, i.e. between semesters, so I'm not sure how much time I'll have for sewing in general. 2016 is going to be a very busy year in a lot of different ways.
miss_philomena: (bib front)

The Challenge: #1: Bi/Tri/Quadri/Quin/Sex/Septi/Octo/Nona/Centennial – due 14 Jan. Sew something from __13, whether it be 1913, 1613, or 13BC
Fabric: cotton velvet outer, silk taffeta lining, stiffened felt interfacing for the ha
Pattern: hat: Lynn McMasters' Late Edwardian Early Teens small hat and toqu C. 1909-1916 pattern, purse drafted by myself based on a purse in the Met's collection.
Year: 1913
Notions: thread 18 gauge wire in the hat interfacing, glass & metal beads on the purse (added post-photo)
How historically accurate is it? Apart from using the stiffened felt interfacing rather than buckram I consider the hat as accurate as possible, the purse I consider a reasonable blend of documented processes, materials, and patterning, and is as closely copied from the original as I could, given that the original was entirely beaded all over, and I chose to use velvet and beaded tassels for trim instead.
Hours to complete: 8-10 hours total for both
First worn: I had planned to wear this on the 26th, but the event was postponed
Total cost: The velvet, taffeta, and glass beads were stash, the rest was about $15

The Challenge: #2: UFO - due Jan 28. Let’s get something off our UFO pile! Use this opportunity to finish off something that’s never quite gotten done, or stalled halfway through.
Fabric: silk dupioni, blue and silver for the first version, rust/copper for the second, finished version.
Pattern: self-drafted from a reticule originally posted on antique-textiles.net, though the page has been taken down since.
Year: 1790-1800
Notions: thread, fusible interfacing, ribbon, gold cord, self-covered botton
How historically accurate is it? I used a fusible interfacing to stiffen the outer silk petals, and it's partially machine sewn. I made the outer petals the way I assume the original had been, based on the photos, and the inner bag is self-lined and constructed as a long tube with the top fold forming the casing for the ribbon, and the bottom edges where turned in and cartridge pleated for shape the bottom.
Hours to complete: the longest part was hand-stitching the gold cord down, so probably 10 hours or so.
First worn: this coming Saturday, hopefully.
Total cost: all stash.
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)

I got Lynn McMasters' 1912 small hats pattern today, and of course I had to start working on that right away~ I'm making view A, the black and white hat in these pictures, though not in the same colors. I've got a lovely dark burgundy-ish cotton velvet that I'm making the whole hat of, and for the moment I've got some ivory lace pinned onto the brim for trim, but I'm not sure I like it. What do you think, flist? The one thing I am liking is how the pointed lace is reminiscent of a tiara.

I've also got a full muslin done of my ball gown for next week, and tomorrow I'll cut the real fabric and start sewing it. It shouldn't take too long to whip it up, I'm thinking the most time-consuming part will be adding all the lace trim.

Posted via LiveJournal app for iPad.


Aug. 16th, 2012 11:30 pm
miss_philomena: (Default)
The Jazz Age Lawn Picnic is the day after tomorrow x_x But I'm close to done, and I have photo proof! I'd making this dress, which I found here, and the dress is 90% done at this point, and the slip about 33% done.

proof! )


Jun. 20th, 2012 08:49 pm
miss_philomena: (Default)
Finally posted my Dress U pics! It's a combination of my own and ones stolen from others.

I don't have pictures of Friday night and Saturday day for myself, but I did get the rest, so here's the quick list of what I wore:

Saturday Night Titanic Dinner )

Sunday Day: Let Them Eat Crepes & Mad Tea Party )

Sunday Evening: Tiaras and Jampagne )

And that's Dress U for me!


May. 31st, 2012 06:59 pm
miss_philomena: (Default)
Titanic dinner gown is done! \o/
Green stripy natural form gown is done! \o/
Everything else I'll be wearing has been pulled out and washed as necessarily! \o/
Costume jewelry has been located and collected! \o/
Tiara has been fixed up! \o/
Hair pieces have been stuffed into a giant bag! \o/
Accessories have (mostly) been collected! \o/

I need to:
-finish the kits for my class
-fix my lace fan (maybe)
-get all my shoes together

I'm going to do the first two tonight, and then pack everything tomorrow morning before I head out.


May. 29th, 2012 05:31 pm
miss_philomena: (Default)
So excited with how my Titanic gown is looking! The sari I picked out for it is so gorgeous and absolutely perfect.

and I did a hair test run too! )
miss_philomena: (Default)
I'm really happy with how my Titanic dinner gown is coming along. It looks awesome already, so I've got high hopes for getting pretty close to done tomorrow. \o/

When I first started planning this outfit I'd thought about doing a bandeau for my hair, but then I remembered something I've been in love with for ages. In the Priscilla Bead Work Book, scanned and posted by the Antique Pattern Library there's a Juliet cap made with pearls of various sizes. I didn't have pearls, but I had a ton of seed beads in a lovely bronze color, and with the addition of some faceted beads of varying sizes, I made a Juliet cap for myself.

a couple more pictures )
miss_philomena: (1875 train)
Two awesome things happened today.

1) I got into the Burnley & Trowbridge stays class in September! \o/ I was first on the waitlist, and someone cancelled, so I'm in~

2) The (second) sari I ordered for my Titanic dinner gown arrived today. I've already got it cut apart and mostly draped, but I need to finish the underdress before I actually finish up the draping of it. It's a net sari, and I wasn't sure if I'd match the color for the underdress or go with black, but black won out, so it'll be made of the black silk charmeuse I've had in the stash for a few years now. I'm still trying to decide if I want to line the skirt or not, but I think, since I'm not doing a train on the silk, I'm going to skip lining. I think I'll just do a petticoat for it.

In the slightly less awesome realm of things, I'm almost finished with the green striped gown. I just need to sew the last few hooks and eyes into the bodice.
miss_philomena: (Default)
The green dress is almost finished. I just need to do the last bits of tacking down the binding in the bodice and add the closures and buttons. The skirts are completely finished, and even have actual skirt hooks for closing, so I won't be safety pinning myself into it for once.

I'm about go to start on the white and red dress too. I think all the fabric is done drying by now. I also decided rather than try and find white eyelet with red embroidery, it's just going to be a fully white dress with a red sash.

Then my sari for my Titanic dinner gown should be arriving tomorrow, so fingers crossed~ It's only taken me a month and a half to get it, after the first one I ordered was damaged in processing and I had to pick out a new one. Dx

And finally~

I'm teaching a class at Dress U, first thing on Friday afternoon, 4pm-7pm. It's how to make knit beaded Victorian (and earlier and later) purses. Only two people signed up for it, but that should make things go faster and easier, I hope. Dress U itself says you can't get into the class day of, but I was planning on making some extra kits for it anyway, so I have no problem accepting extra people as long as they pay for it. We'll see, I guess~


May. 20th, 2012 07:10 pm
miss_philomena: (Default)
taking a short break from the green gown, I put some thought to what I want for the Gibson girl pool party, and I think I'm going to go with more of an early teens day gown, something like this dress though with a red and white color scheme instead. (and trim rather than embroidery, with time constraints) And I picked up a red hat earlier that with some basic alterations should work quite well~
miss_philomena: (1875 train)
Corset is almost finished! I just need to put in the grommets, the hooks and eyes that go below the busk, and the garters. So either tomorrow or Tuesday, depending on how late we are getting back from fabric shopping in NYC.

Photo proof!

After I finished the right half:

The current state of it:

As you can see the cotton lamé has a nice hint of shimmer to it, perfect for princessing.
And once it's finished, it's dinner gown time.
miss_philomena: (Default)
I actually sewed today \o/ I've got most of a teens corset pieced, and I'll probably do the last bit of assembly tonight after a dinner break, and tomorrow I need to run out and pick up some tape to make boning casings with.

I'm using [livejournal.com profile] jenthompson's corset pattern, since it's not complicated, and it's not super tiny, which means I didn't need to practically double the waist measurements. Always a plus.

I didn't want to make it plain white, because that's boring, but I still needed to keep it a light color so I can make myself a white afternoon dress. I was originally digging through the stash hoping for something in a light pink, but then I discovered an old piece of lilac/silver cotton lamé. It's a fairly thin fabric so I fused it to some plain cotton to give it enough strength.

I'm hoping to get the corset finished tomorrow, so I can then start on a dress for the Titanic dinner at Dress U Tuesday, as I'll be away Wednesday to Sunday.
miss_philomena: (1875 train)
I'm so horribly behind with the sewing I need for Dress U. x_x I need to make something for the Titanic dinner, Let Them Eat Crepes, the Gibson girl pool party, and possibly something for the Mad Tea Party if I don't decide to go with my red striped bustle instead. I know what I'm doing for Gibson girl already (something like this), and I've got most of an idea for Titanic as well, but I've planned nothing at all yet for Crepes.

Anyway, Titanic gown link parking:

This is the biggest inspiration so far, I think.

Though this is a strong second place.

This as well

And finally this.

But basically, I've discovered I really like Callot Soeurs gowns a lot. I have four or five other ones of theirs bookmarked as well for this. Also, I want to make a purse like this one, which is also theirs, if I can find a lace that would work.

I think that's all for now....
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream fan)
The Met's website is such an amazing, evil thing, isn't it? xD There are so many things on my someday list from their collection, and I just want to toss up a list so I can remember for myself.

1. Robe à la Polonaise ca. 1787 I love love love the golden yellow damask trimmed with blue taffeta combination. And the shawl collar and ruched oversleeve. I just love the whole thing, though I think when I do make this style I'll make it a bit more fitted than this.

2. Visiting Dress, 1867 It's striped. It's transitional early bustle. It's floofy and over the top. Do I really need to say anything else? :3

3. Dress, 1865-1870 I really like the shape and draping of this skirt. (The Met gave this a range of 1865-70, but I'd definitely put it closer to the end of that than the beginning, given the style of the skirt.)

4. Afternoon Dress, 1870-1875 This is definitely a dress where the fabric makes the gown. But I just love that bright blue in the brocade that's then repeated in the trim.

5. Dress, 1872 I love how light and airy and soft this looks. I really want to make a summer ensemble, with either a printed gauze like this, or just a plain organza.

6. Afternoon Ensemble, 1880-1885 This blue is such a beautiful, rich color, and the brocade, of course, is the perfect highlight with it. And I love all the mix and match pieces and the various ways it can be worn.

7. Dress, 1885-1888 I know [livejournal.com profile] koshka_the_cat is planning on making this, but I've been drooling over this down for a couple months now. The stripes! Who could say no to that?

8. Afternoon Dress, 1912 I want to do the DPP for Your Wardrobe Unlock'd, and while my first thought went to an evening gown, this one with it's deceptively simple lines (and stripes!) is lovely. I think the only thing I'd really change is the neckline. I really, really can't stand high collars, or really anything tight around the neck.

So, I've actually cut down the list from what I'd originally planned, believe it or not. But this seems like a good starting off point. xD

Oh and one last thing! I've made myself a twitter account, if anyone has one and would be interested in following it, though I don't know how often I'll use it.
miss_philomena: (watteau)

Okay, this is an attempt to plan out what I want to do over the next three and a half months for Costume Con. Now, taking into account classes and a part-time job with my usual speed, I'm going to try for two outfits a month. Once I make a new pair of drawers and finish my fully boned stays, I won't need to factor in undies time. Anyway, here's a tentative schedule.

1840s dresses x2 for Poe
18th century fully boned stays
1780s Chemise à la Reine if I can, otherwise it'll get bumped back where it fits.

1872 Watteau Bustle Gown
1869 Villainess Gown, on the left

1660s Catherine-Charlotte de Gramont, Princess of Monaco for [livejournal.com profile] charlesii.
Secret Project for the Masq

1791 Purple Sari Pierrot Jacket and Skirt
1920s Print Silk Dress, adaptation
1957 dress

Of course, if I finish stuff faster than I plan (which I probably will), things will get bumped up. Unfortunately, my budget won't allow for the duchesse satin for the 1660s gown until March, but if I can, the April dresses will get bumped up sooner because I already have the fabric for all of them, leaving more time for the March dresses.

ETA: wow that's a lot of tags. XD

ETA2: I've put up an ij mirror account, but I'm not worried about needing it. It's there just in case. Feel free to friend it.

miss_philomena: (devil's whore hillside)
Alright, I didn't do a lot in 2008, but I also didn't start anything until September. I did knock out two complete outfits in under a week each, though, so that has to count for something.

September, 2008: The Red Stripy Bustle
While I'd had the undies sewn for a while, the dress itself I did in three days. I wanted something bright for Saloncon, and this definitely qualifies.

December, 2008: Revolution in a Week
Basically, the only parts of this I didn't make in a one week rush were my shoes, stockings, and hat blank. Upon extended wearing I've decided the front of my half-boned stays need to be recut, because currently they're a bit too short and wide across the bust. But that's for later.

And for 2009, I have quite the list.

I have ideas for a few more things, and I need at least one Vampires, Villains and Vixens outfit, but this is most definitely enough for the first half of 2009.


miss_philomena: (Default)

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