May. 3rd, 2017 10:19 am
miss_philomena: (Default)
Okay, so I'm super far behind, but now that I've successfully imported all of my lj posts here I'm gonna start working on the list.

Things I Need to Write Up:
New Castle, Dec '16
Regency Tea, Jan '17
Victorian Skating, Feb '17
Suffragette, Feb '17
Big Ass Hat, April '17

I am, of course, going to skip over all of that and jump to my current project, which needs to be finished for Sunday.

Pink and Blue Pet en L'air

Back in November at Burnley and Trowbridge's hat making workshop I picked up two and a bit yards of this lovely pink and blue crossbarred silk with vague plans to make some sort of jacket with it eventually. Well, 3/4ths of the usual suspects are going to a tea demonstration this Sunday, after having made most of a dress in a day for [personal profile] robinsnest there this past Saturday. Apparently it's to be silk day, and I decided I wanted something new, so into the stash I went!

I opted for a pet en l'air, as they're fun and light and a fairly quick make, though I've had to redo a few things when I decided I wasn't happy with how it looked. But for having started Sunday evening and only putting in 3-4 not very dedicated sewing hours in the last two days, it's close to done. Today's plan is to finish trimming the sleeves, and then set them along the bottom so I only need to put my stays on once to finalize the shoulder straps and set the top of the sleeve. Then it's only the shoulder pieces to cover, and a hem! (And a good pressing)

Pink and Blue Pet en L'air Pink and Blue Pet en L'air Pink and Blue Pet en L'air
Back pleats pinned into place // back panel completely attached to lining // front pleats pinned into place

For the weekend I plan to wear it over my plain white taffeta petticoat and my baby pocket hoops, made for my 1740s mantua a few years back. I'm not looking for a super hippy shape in this, just a little extra oomph. There might be pictures over the next couple days, if not, finished pictures after Sunday!
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
For which I actually had an Anglaise! Or Italian/quarter back gown. I'm not sure if it's considered an Anglaise if it doesn't have the en fourreau pleats? I have seen some 1780s plates referring to this style as an Italian gown, and I've seen other costumers call it a quarter back gown. Anyway.

I pretty much did a straight copy of a gown I found on Pinterest. Board with pictures here! I just loved the chevron back and the cuff on it. The only thing I didn't do was the pleated trim, because I just didn't have the fabric for it. I only had five yards total, and I wanted the skirt as full as possible. The center back bodice panels are pieced to keep the bodice and sleeves made out of only one yard of fabric so that the rest could go to the skirt.

The fabric is a satin striped silk, the same one [livejournal.com profile] mandie_rw used in her jacket, though in a different colorway. I bought it on eBay years ago and it's lingered in the stash for quite some time. I'd actually initially planned to make this gown, albeit as a round gown, for the Battle of Trenton Ball back in December, but schoolwork and things with Mom prevented that. But I got it whipped up last week, along with two new petticoats, and wearable for the luncheon Sunday!

I failed to take pictures myself, so these are shamelessly stolen from Amanda.

050_zps9y5emnpe 051_zpsbhjajwln 053_zps9c55es7m

It was drizzling lightly so I wore the gown retroussée dans les poches, or pulled through the pocket slits. All I did was stick my hands through the pockets, gather up a bunch of the skirt in my hands, and pull it up and through. Not evenly, either, as I can see the center back seam leaning right in the pictures, haha. With it I have a sheer striped cotton petticoat on, as well as a plain white muslin petticoat, both of which I whipped up Friday, and my quilted petticoat on the bottom. I accessorized with my carnation pinball, tiny green silk twill reticule, round cap with a red silk ribbon, and a bonnet I made years and years ago that was meant to go with a back and green striped polonaise gown I still haven't made. (Someday...) The brim is paper straw made using Lynn McMasters' Early 19 Century Seaside Bonnet, and the crown is just a circle of green dupioni that was gathered, bound, and whipped onto the brim. (The mitts are cheater mitts- I couldn't find my brown linen ones so I grabbed these. They're actually a greyish purple knit, a Christmas present from my almost-aunt, and completely modern, but the perfect shape, so I grabbed them to keep my arms warm while outside.)

One thing I feel I should point out: the giant V stripe on the back, that goes from shoulder to waist to shoulder? That was 100% accidental. I only made sure the center back seam stripes lined up properly, and didn't even bother to compare the stripes on the side back pieces to the center back. I didn't even notice it until I looked at the pictures after Amanda posted them!

non-costume related life whining )
miss_philomena: (watteau)

Okay, this is an attempt to plan out what I want to do over the next three and a half months for Costume Con. Now, taking into account classes and a part-time job with my usual speed, I'm going to try for two outfits a month. Once I make a new pair of drawers and finish my fully boned stays, I won't need to factor in undies time. Anyway, here's a tentative schedule.

1840s dresses x2 for Poe
18th century fully boned stays
1780s Chemise à la Reine if I can, otherwise it'll get bumped back where it fits.

1872 Watteau Bustle Gown
1869 Villainess Gown, on the left

1660s Catherine-Charlotte de Gramont, Princess of Monaco for [livejournal.com profile] charlesii.
Secret Project for the Masq

1791 Purple Sari Pierrot Jacket and Skirt
1920s Print Silk Dress, adaptation
1957 dress

Of course, if I finish stuff faster than I plan (which I probably will), things will get bumped up. Unfortunately, my budget won't allow for the duchesse satin for the 1660s gown until March, but if I can, the April dresses will get bumped up sooner because I already have the fabric for all of them, leaving more time for the March dresses.

ETA: wow that's a lot of tags. XD

ETA2: I've put up an ij mirror account, but I'm not worried about needing it. It's there just in case. Feel free to friend it.

miss_philomena: (la belle sleeve)
Just a couple of quick pictures from yesterday morning before heading over to the Old Barracks. I'll do more, nicer pictures at some point in the semi-near future, once I fix a couple of things that didn't work well as is.

Anyway, pictures!

And one more )

miss_philomena: (la belle chocolatiere)

I did a fair amount of work on the stays today. I decided to go with my orange linen for the fashion fabric, with red stitching and binding. I've stay stitched where I'll slash for the tabs, but I don't plan to cut them apart until I do the binding.

I couldn't find my metal sheers anywhere, so the last few boning channels have to wait. I need to insert the diagonal bones in the front before I close them in with the horizontal channels at the top.

As you can see, I put in metal grommets for lacing. I tried to do an eyelet completely by hand, but with the heavy cotton I'm using for interlining, I couldn't get an awl through. I'm sewing over them though. to look pretty and hide the fact that they aren't all the same color.

Tomorrow I plan to do the boning and finish the channels, and at least stay stitch the edge of the stays. I also plan to get the skirts done, but they shouldn't take long anyway. Wednesday day I'll start the jacket muslin, and I'll take the stays with me when we visit family in the evening to do the binding and the eyelets.

miss_philomena: (la belle sleeve)

Upon further thought I've decided I do want to try and reproduce the exact jacket in La Belle Chocolatiere. The front of the jacket is mostly obscured, but there's enough visible to hint at the details. There's a narrow collar in a somewhat odd possibly inverted scallop shape, and I think the jacket might be open in the front, with a blue stomacher to match the petticoat. I'm not sure what exactly the little bit of lighter orangey-yellow visible between the jacket and the shawl is. It seems like the wrong color for lace, but I don't think it's her stays peeking out either.

In terms of actual productivity today, I did up a muslin for half-boned stays, and then redrafted the pattern with a few changes. Tomorrow I'll cut them out and hopefully get at least the piecing and boning channels sewn. I know I have enough steel boning to do them up, I'll just have to dig it out. I'd like to get them fully done tomorrow, but hand done eyelets are definitely not high on my list of favorite activities. I have both yellow and orange creamsicle linen that I might use for these, or I might go in a completely different direction and use dark purple linen instead. I'll decide that tomorrow though.

miss_philomena: (catherine hand)
The Idea The Fabric The Base Pattern
La Belle Chocolatiere by Jean-Etienne Liotard burnt orange wool & blue/grey linen  1760-70 Jacket from Patterns of Fashion 1 by Janet Arnold

I've volunteered to help out at the Battle of Trenton reenactment next Saturday. And because I'm insane, I plan to make myself a full outfit rather than borrow one. I've decided on a jacket and skirt rather than a dress, for several reasons. For one, I don't have enough of any one color wool to make a full dress from. For another, a jacket will be easier to fit (and look better) if I don't get my stays done in time. And finally, and this is mainly a vanity thing, I don't want to be in a dress like most other women will be. I want to be a period correct non-conformist.

I should be able to knock off the petticoats in one sitting, really. I'm planning on three. An aquamarine flannel will be the innermost one, followed by wool of yet undetermined color, then topped with the blue linen. I'll have to run the linen through the wash a few times tomorrow; it's still pretty stiff.

I'll also scale up the jacket pattern and start working on that tomorrow as well. I'm not sure if I'll include the cuffs yet, that'll depend on if I have enough of the wool. I've only got about a yard and a quarter, but I'm not worried. Piecing is such a period practice, after all.

I think I have a round ear cap somewhere, but I might just make a new one, along with a stuffer shawl and mitts. I have one of the wide-brimmed felt hats from Williamsburg, but I'm not sure how to trim it, or if it's even appropriate for winter. That's at the end of the list though.

And over all of this, because it'll probably still be in the mid to upper 20s next weekend, I have a massive and heavy cape, made of dark blue wool and lined with light grey linen. I'll have to stop being lazy and finally sew a clasp on to it.

So, six days and counting.

PS- I didn't go into this intending to copy the color scheme of the painting. I spread all of my wool and linen out, picked the two I liked best together, and ran with it. THEN I went and looked up the painting for the style, and realized I'd picked the same colors. XD

miss_philomena: (Default)
In other words, current and soon to be started projects, in no particular order. *Warning, this post is image heavy.*

While I don't claim to be a great knitter (I can't do *rather, haven't tried* more complicated stuff), one of my absolute favorite things are the beaded knit purses you occasionally see. I have a couple, bought at an antique fashion etc auction that I can't remember the dates for, done with gorgeous steel beads. Steel beads are no longer manufactured, or if they are, I haven't been able to find them, so I have to compromise and use glass beads. Fire Mountain Gems actually carries steel colored glass beads, which look damn near prefect, but I haven't gotten around to ordering more from them yet. Anyway, enough babble. This is one of three purses I'm working on at the moment. )

And on to the sewing.

I had some fun on Ebay the other day and ended up picking up three saris. One of them will probably wind up being made into an 1880s bustle dress. I have a book with a plate I like, I just can't find it at the moment. If (and this is a very big if) I can make it work, the other might wind up a late Regency style. It really just depends on if it's long enough on the crossgrain to use for the skirt.
It will be one of these two, and I think I'm leaning more toward the green one for the Victorian dress. )

The third sari I bought, which is an absolutely gorgeous blue brocade, will be put aside for some future use. )

On my 1872 Watteau outfit: I've done a bit more of the pattern, but I still haven't gotten around to the back and side back pieces. Perhaps Sunday or Monday, since I have the house to myself for a week, and the cats certainly won't care if I move the kitchen table. Anyway, I snapped a pic of the fabric I'm planning on using. )

Next up: 1874 evening gown (on the left): Nothing really to say, as I don't have the lace yet for the skirt, and haven't done more than cut out the bodice. Here's the beautiful light blue/white shot silk I'm using for it, though. I think I'm going to look for a satin ribbon to match it for the swags and bows. Don't know what I'm going to do about the fringe yet. I might just go with lace.

And into the the 18th century: I've loved the 1775-85 Caraco in Patterns of Fashion since the first time I saw it. And I've had this silk/cotton brocade sitting around waiting to be used for years, so it really seems like a match made in heaven. )

And I think that's enough babble from me today. And on a completely random note, I need more icons.

ETA: I've also got a Regency getup mostly done for one of my BJDs, so once I get around to sewing the closures and whatnot on, I'll put up pictures of that as well.

miss_philomena: (Default)
Redrafting the pattern for my 1872 Watteau polonaise has been put on hold due to a lack of space. If I were inclined to move my very large and heavy kitchen table, I'd have enough room there to draft up the long parts, but that requires moving a large and heavy table. I think I'll just wait until Wednesday evening, when my neighborhood civic society has the monthly meeting in the local church basement. Plenty of space there. I'm also 75% decided on fabric for that. Since only the polonaise is cut out of the print, and all of the ruffles and skirt are made from the solid, I should be fine with 7 yards. It'll just depend on how wide the side back and center back pieces end up.

Because I can't work on just one project at once, I've got the bodice for an 1874 evening gown cut out, and need to work on that some. Not much else to say at this point, other than I need to scan in the plate I'm using as inspiration for that.

Only two projects at once? Are you kidding? I can't leave well enough alone, and have started on an 18th century project as well. I've pulled out fabric and traced off the pattern, and at some point soon I'll start on a set of stays. This set caught my eye, mainly because of the decorative lacing up the front, and what appears to be wavy cording. I can't consider the lacing functional, anyway, because it doesn't lace all the way down, and it doesn't look like it meant to be opened there either. "Fitting and Proper" also features a set of stays that has that bit of lacing at the front, and the angled boning. The McCord Museum's stays simply seem a more elaborate version of those. Anyway, I plan to use some hunter green cotton satteen I dug out as the face fabric, and will have to keep an eye out for a nice ivory cotton or linen tape for the binding before class next week. If I take an earlier train I should have more than enough time to run over to M&J first.


miss_philomena: (Default)

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