miss_philomena: (watteau)
I'll admit, I haven't been sewing anywhere near as much as I should've been. D: Part of it is laziness, I'll admit. But part of it is also because I've been experimenting.

What, you ask, have I been experimenting on? I've been intrigued with the 1872 bustle hoop from Corsets and Crinolines, and so I've been playing with it. I'll admit, I've made mistakes every step of the way, but as this first one is only the trial, I'm not as worried about it. It's also made of two different types of fabric, and two unmatching colors of bias tape. Apart from the waistband it's all pieced together, though because I ran out of hooping steel it only has the bustle steels and the bottom most hoop. But my new stuff arrived today, so I plan to finish it tomorrow hopefully. But even with most of it's hoops missing, I'm already loving the shape of the bustle. Have a couple (fuzzy cameraphone) pictures! (With bonus Watteau bustle).

here's my lobstertail style bustle
and this is the 1872 bustled crinoline before I put in the bottom hoop

There isn't just bustle across the very back. It actually comes around my hips, adding some soft fullness there that's a part of the early bustle silhouette that looks lovely, if I do say so. I'm eager to see how it looks once I finish it up.

miss_philomena: (Default)
I've got the Watteau polonaise all pieced, apart from the stomacher and sleeves, and pinned up on my dress form. (No pictures because I haven't gotten around to digging my camera out and charging it. >_>) I'm not entirely crazy with how the back of it lays over my bustle, but I think part of it is because it's only over a petticoat right now, which a) is nowhere near as full as the matching skirt will be, and b) only has a couple inches of train in the back, so it's not flaring out there to support the polonaise. I'm also toying with the idea of making Laughing Moon's train supporting bustle, which will flare out the back of the skirt and polonaise nicely. But I think that, which is not specifically needed at this point in time, will have to wait.

I've also started planning my next project as well. I've wanted to make an 18th century mantua for a while now, when the style became a bit more defined and regulated. My first plan was to style it after the 1710s mantua in the V&A, but now I'm thinking I want to go a touch earlier, before it became standard to loop the train up. And I can't deny that I've always been drawn to the Met's 1708 mantua. I've been looking at all the pictures of it for a while today, trying to figure out how exactly they arranged the poofs in the back, and I think, rather than folding the skirt back over itself and securing it at the center back waist, they either tucked the sides under, or just much lower, and then puffed a bit of the back up over it to make that big puff. You can kind of see that it was done slightly differently in the two different sets of pictures, as the train is longer in one set.

As for fabric for the mantua, I have my eye on a couple damasks on ebay, and if those fall through, I'll just look for something in New York next time I'm up there. I'd really prefer a damask or brocade, but worse comes to worse I'll use something solid. (I'm holding out for a specific damask, though, if it doesn't go too high. >_>)
miss_philomena: (watteau)
A couple weeks ago I got the Watteau bustle polonaise all drafted and ready to go. I just cut out the pattern, and hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to lay the fabric out in the living room and get it pinned and cut out. I should have juuuuuuuust enough of the printed cotton to wiggle it out. But I drafted it so that the back would be as long as possible, so if my fabric shrunk more than I expected in the wash, I can just shorten that up as much as needed. If the center back ends up less than 68", well, it's not the end of the world. XD

In other news, I picked up the 'Fashioning Fashion' book yesterday at Barnes and Noble. And thanks to a coupon and mom's membership, it came out to $35 instead of $55. I like saving lots of money on pretty books~ :3 I wish I could see the exhibit in person, but sadly that's not possible.

Hmm... I think that's all I need to post on for now. Maybe tomorrow, if I get everything cut out and pieced, I'll have pictures to share. :3

Posted via Journaler.
miss_philomena: (pink evening)
What a crazy idea~

My gored bustle skirt pattern has disappeared, so I'm drafting myself up a new one. My original one was only five panels all together, but I think for this one I'm going to add an extra gore to each side. I plan to use this pattern for both gowns I'm working on, my Watteau bustle for daywear, and the bubblegum pink gown for evening wear.

So getting this pattern drafted up is tonight's project. And of course my four foot wide roll of pattern paper is MIA as well, so I'm left using the 24"x36" pad of newsprint I have, and I'll just have to tape it together so it's big enough. Not my favorite way to do it, but oh well~
miss_philomena: (grey purple plaid)
I tried everything on earlier and it's all looking fabulous, but I didn't feel like taking pictures. I've got the bodice lining cut out, and I'll do the plaid next. And when it's light out tomorrow I'll go outside and tear the strips for the velvet bands on the skirt. I'd rather keep all that fuzz outside.

I've also started covering the bonnet as well. I'm using a brown cotton velveteen for the outer fabric. I've got the crown cut, gathered and pinned on. I'll baste it down and then put on the brim. I'm leaning towards using blue ribbons for trim to match the blue stripes on the silk. We'll see what I like when I go up to M&J.

On a completely different note, I'm toying with the idea of switching out the Watteau bustle gown for my teal Venetian for Costume Con. I'll decide that once I finish everything for Poe.

miss_philomena: (watteau)

Okay, this is an attempt to plan out what I want to do over the next three and a half months for Costume Con. Now, taking into account classes and a part-time job with my usual speed, I'm going to try for two outfits a month. Once I make a new pair of drawers and finish my fully boned stays, I won't need to factor in undies time. Anyway, here's a tentative schedule.

January:
1840s dresses x2 for Poe
18th century fully boned stays
1780s Chemise à la Reine if I can, otherwise it'll get bumped back where it fits.

February:
1872 Watteau Bustle Gown
1869 Villainess Gown, on the left

March:
1660s Catherine-Charlotte de Gramont, Princess of Monaco for [livejournal.com profile] charlesii.
Secret Project for the Masq

April:
1791 Purple Sari Pierrot Jacket and Skirt
1920s Print Silk Dress, adaptation
1957 dress

Of course, if I finish stuff faster than I plan (which I probably will), things will get bumped up. Unfortunately, my budget won't allow for the duchesse satin for the 1660s gown until March, but if I can, the April dresses will get bumped up sooner because I already have the fabric for all of them, leaving more time for the March dresses.

ETA: wow that's a lot of tags. XD

ETA2: I've put up an ij mirror account, but I'm not worried about needing it. It's there just in case. Feel free to friend it.

miss_philomena: (devil's whore hillside)
Alright, I didn't do a lot in 2008, but I also didn't start anything until September. I did knock out two complete outfits in under a week each, though, so that has to count for something.

September, 2008: The Red Stripy Bustle
While I'd had the undies sewn for a while, the dress itself I did in three days. I wanted something bright for Saloncon, and this definitely qualifies.

December, 2008: Revolution in a Week
Basically, the only parts of this I didn't make in a one week rush were my shoes, stockings, and hat blank. Upon extended wearing I've decided the front of my half-boned stays need to be recut, because currently they're a bit too short and wide across the bust. But that's for later.

And for 2009, I have quite the list.

I have ideas for a few more things, and I need at least one Vampires, Villains and Vixens outfit, but this is most definitely enough for the first half of 2009.

miss_philomena: (Default)
In other words, current and soon to be started projects, in no particular order. *Warning, this post is image heavy.*

While I don't claim to be a great knitter (I can't do *rather, haven't tried* more complicated stuff), one of my absolute favorite things are the beaded knit purses you occasionally see. I have a couple, bought at an antique fashion etc auction that I can't remember the dates for, done with gorgeous steel beads. Steel beads are no longer manufactured, or if they are, I haven't been able to find them, so I have to compromise and use glass beads. Fire Mountain Gems actually carries steel colored glass beads, which look damn near prefect, but I haven't gotten around to ordering more from them yet. Anyway, enough babble. This is one of three purses I'm working on at the moment. )

And on to the sewing.

I had some fun on Ebay the other day and ended up picking up three saris. One of them will probably wind up being made into an 1880s bustle dress. I have a book with a plate I like, I just can't find it at the moment. If (and this is a very big if) I can make it work, the other might wind up a late Regency style. It really just depends on if it's long enough on the crossgrain to use for the skirt.
It will be one of these two, and I think I'm leaning more toward the green one for the Victorian dress. )

The third sari I bought, which is an absolutely gorgeous blue brocade, will be put aside for some future use. )

On my 1872 Watteau outfit: I've done a bit more of the pattern, but I still haven't gotten around to the back and side back pieces. Perhaps Sunday or Monday, since I have the house to myself for a week, and the cats certainly won't care if I move the kitchen table. Anyway, I snapped a pic of the fabric I'm planning on using. )

Next up: 1874 evening gown (on the left): Nothing really to say, as I don't have the lace yet for the skirt, and haven't done more than cut out the bodice. Here's the beautiful light blue/white shot silk I'm using for it, though. I think I'm going to look for a satin ribbon to match it for the swags and bows. Don't know what I'm going to do about the fringe yet. I might just go with lace.

And into the the 18th century: I've loved the 1775-85 Caraco in Patterns of Fashion since the first time I saw it. And I've had this silk/cotton brocade sitting around waiting to be used for years, so it really seems like a match made in heaven. )

And I think that's enough babble from me today. And on a completely random note, I need more icons.

ETA: I've also got a Regency getup mostly done for one of my BJDs, so once I get around to sewing the closures and whatnot on, I'll put up pictures of that as well.

miss_philomena: (Default)
Redrafting the pattern for my 1872 Watteau polonaise has been put on hold due to a lack of space. If I were inclined to move my very large and heavy kitchen table, I'd have enough room there to draft up the long parts, but that requires moving a large and heavy table. I think I'll just wait until Wednesday evening, when my neighborhood civic society has the monthly meeting in the local church basement. Plenty of space there. I'm also 75% decided on fabric for that. Since only the polonaise is cut out of the print, and all of the ruffles and skirt are made from the solid, I should be fine with 7 yards. It'll just depend on how wide the side back and center back pieces end up.

Because I can't work on just one project at once, I've got the bodice for an 1874 evening gown cut out, and need to work on that some. Not much else to say at this point, other than I need to scan in the plate I'm using as inspiration for that.

Only two projects at once? Are you kidding? I can't leave well enough alone, and have started on an 18th century project as well. I've pulled out fabric and traced off the pattern, and at some point soon I'll start on a set of stays. This set caught my eye, mainly because of the decorative lacing up the front, and what appears to be wavy cording. I can't consider the lacing functional, anyway, because it doesn't lace all the way down, and it doesn't look like it meant to be opened there either. "Fitting and Proper" also features a set of stays that has that bit of lacing at the front, and the angled boning. The McCord Museum's stays simply seem a more elaborate version of those. Anyway, I plan to use some hunter green cotton satteen I dug out as the face fabric, and will have to keep an eye out for a nice ivory cotton or linen tape for the binding before class next week. If I take an earlier train I should have more than enough time to run over to M&J first.

miss_philomena: (Default)
I took pictures today. Got some strange looks from families picnicking, but oh well.



The rest here.

I'm having oral surgery Wednesday, so I'll probably start working on the pattern for my next dress after that. I plan on adapting TV's 1873 Polonaise, which I've already fit to myself. I'll be doing a full out dress diary for it, so look for th starting post soon.

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