miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
Partially anyway. I started this dress back in late May for a picnic that got rained out, so it went on the UFO pile. A small group of us are hitting up a tea house this weekend, and I don't feel like wearing my red cotton gown. So I decided, rather than just fix/recut the left sleeve on my windowpane green silk gown, which was my first idea, that I'd pull this out and finish it.


The bodice was already mostly assembled, I just needed to sew the side seams and sew up and set the sleeves. Right now it's currently in the War & Peace asymmetrical style, as you can see. The sleeves are three parts- the short puffed sleeve, a fitted short lining, and a long fitted sleeve that's just basted in.

I pinned the front with about a 4" overlap, but I'm thinking I'm either going to have it just meet in the front, or only a very small 1" overlap, and fill it in with either a chemisette or fichu. Looking at the picture I feel like the high overlap looks too closed off. I want it more like this gown, I think. I also plan to do a dogleg closure like that gown as well, and have a round skirt. I don't have enough fabric to put three panels in the skirt like usual, so what I plan to do instead is gore the front so I can get a fuller hem, and use a full panel for the back.

Today's plan is to set the second set of sleeves, sew the waistband to the bodice, and cut and sew the skirt pieces. Tomorrow will be attaching the skirt and putting in closures. But right now it's time for an early lunch!
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
It's after midnight as I get ready to post this, so I am now exactly 275 days away from my wedding. Insanity!

And my best friend is getting married in something like 55 days. I have no idea what I'm going to wear to hear wedding yet either. It's a cinderella's ball type theme, so I told her I'd just wear one of my Victorian ball gowns, but she was less than enthused by that idea. I have a really nice evening gown, and while it fits in the body, it's too tight now in the bust. And the boobs are the one place I haven't lost weight from as my weight has gone down. I'm trying to decide if I want to see if I can find myself a dress for under $150 or so, or just make myself something.

But that's not the point of this post! This is my 2015 in review. It was crappy in some ways, and good in others. The best of course being that my mom is still here, followed very closely by Joe proposing.

Here's what I made )

I'm also starting to plot out what I want to sew next year.

I've already decided to spend January and February making new undies for all periods. I need three chemises: 18th century, regency, and Victorian. I need pantaloons. I need to finally sew the regency stays I cut out a year ago. I need to do a little repair work on my 1780s stays, mainly replacing a couple of the broken cane bones. If possible, I want to make a new pair of fully boned stays appropriate for Pennsbury Manor. I need to decide if I want to just take in my Victorian corset, or make a new one.

I want to do pre-raphaelite/faux medieval for my birthday, which is April. I've got the fitted gown, I just need something to go over it now. I'm told one of my spring semester professors expects a fully sewn piece every week though, so we'll see how much time/energy I have outside of schoolwork for personal sewing.

Beyond that I'm not entirely sure what will be happening. I've got linen to make a new Pennsbury mantua as well, but I probably won't need it until May or June. And those don't take a ton of time to make. It'll probably come on the train with me where I can sit and hand sew for a good 80 minutes each way.

I also want to flesh out my late 18th century wardrobe. I've been doing that more than Victorian lately, and I want to keep at it while it holds my interest.

I'm hoping to move sometime in the summer, i.e. between semesters, so I'm not sure how much time I'll have for sewing in general. 2016 is going to be a very busy year in a lot of different ways.
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)

I swear I wasn't trying to line the stripes up on the side back seams. It just happened.
miss_philomena: (Default)

Because the francaise dinner is only two weeks away and I really do need something better than a chemise gown to wear. >_>

I actually bought this fabric to make this mantua two years ago, but I kept putting off because hey, cutting into expensive silk brocade is a bit scary. Plus to get the mantua length right I wouldn't have enough for a matching petticoat, but after looking at a LOT of 1680s and 1690s plates and etchings, most of them didn't have a matching petticoat.

So today I finally started working on it. I'm mostly following the diagram in The Cut of Women's Clothes for the late 17th century mantua in the Met (it's labelled as 1700 in the book, the Met has it a little earlier). The diagram shows it with a stomacher and belt, which is how I have it draped at the moment, but I might change that. I do know I'm going to do shorter sleeves than what the diagram shows.

Tomorrow I'm going to baste the side body seams together so I can try it on and check the fit and lay of it, and see if I want to have a closed or open front. The only reason I hesitate to do a close front is I'm much wider than the original, and I'm not sure it'd be flattering on me. We'll see~~

I basted the center back seam to make it easier to do the rest of the tucks. The pins are just to keep the fabric underneath from wiggling around before I topstitch it, and the center neckline needs to be trimmed down still.

a couple more pics )

miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)

Hello everyone, my name is Adrienne, and I'm addicted to tiaras. Now I'm gonna go put one of them on and do the last bit of finishing on my gold 1790s robe so it closes properly rather than pinning it shut.
miss_philomena: (bib front)

The Challenge: #1: Bi/Tri/Quadri/Quin/Sex/Septi/Octo/Nona/Centennial – due 14 Jan. Sew something from __13, whether it be 1913, 1613, or 13BC
Fabric: cotton velvet outer, silk taffeta lining, stiffened felt interfacing for the ha
Pattern: hat: Lynn McMasters' Late Edwardian Early Teens small hat and toqu C. 1909-1916 pattern, purse drafted by myself based on a purse in the Met's collection.
Year: 1913
Notions: thread 18 gauge wire in the hat interfacing, glass & metal beads on the purse (added post-photo)
How historically accurate is it? Apart from using the stiffened felt interfacing rather than buckram I consider the hat as accurate as possible, the purse I consider a reasonable blend of documented processes, materials, and patterning, and is as closely copied from the original as I could, given that the original was entirely beaded all over, and I chose to use velvet and beaded tassels for trim instead.
Hours to complete: 8-10 hours total for both
First worn: I had planned to wear this on the 26th, but the event was postponed
Total cost: The velvet, taffeta, and glass beads were stash, the rest was about $15

The Challenge: #2: UFO - due Jan 28. Let’s get something off our UFO pile! Use this opportunity to finish off something that’s never quite gotten done, or stalled halfway through.
Fabric: silk dupioni, blue and silver for the first version, rust/copper for the second, finished version.
Pattern: self-drafted from a reticule originally posted on antique-textiles.net, though the page has been taken down since.
Year: 1790-1800
Notions: thread, fusible interfacing, ribbon, gold cord, self-covered botton
How historically accurate is it? I used a fusible interfacing to stiffen the outer silk petals, and it's partially machine sewn. I made the outer petals the way I assume the original had been, based on the photos, and the inner bag is self-lined and constructed as a long tube with the top fold forming the casing for the ribbon, and the bottom edges where turned in and cartridge pleated for shape the bottom.
Hours to complete: the longest part was hand-stitching the gold cord down, so probably 10 hours or so.
First worn: this coming Saturday, hopefully.
Total cost: all stash.
miss_philomena: (1875 train)
but I finished my gown in time for the ball at Rockwood this past Saturday!
miss_philomena: (1875 waist)
So I discovered working for a couple hours in the hot attic while still sick is a bad idea. Still feeling a little shakey, even an hour later. x_x

But I started on my next project, a summer bustle gown, even though summer is almost over. Summer weather isn't, at any rate. I'm using this fabric, which is a yellow and shiny sheer plaid. (Check? Windowpane? What exactly is this pattern?) I dug out my bustle skirt pattern and somehow my side back piece is missing. dklgjsklgnlskdjglsdkng So I cheated and just cut a slightly longer side front for the side back and all is good. The center back is just a full width of fabric, like I usually cut, though I still need to trim down the top into a curve. I cut this one short too, with only a sweep rather than a long train like I usually do. I've only got the back half of the skirt so far, and because it's so sheer I did French seams for it.

I plan to put ruffles the whole way up the back before I add the front half of the skirt. I just need to decide how long I want the ruffles to be. There's going to be one deep ruffle going the whole way around the bottom of the skirt, then tiers over it on the back. I'm not sure if they should be all the same size or get smaller as they go up, but I might play around and pin some of different sizes on. We'll see.

In other parts of the dress, I think I'm going to do a bodice with a belt and a basque, and I'm still thinking about what to do with the skirt front.

a slightly crappy pic of the plain skirt back )


Jun. 20th, 2012 08:49 pm
miss_philomena: (Default)
Finally posted my Dress U pics! It's a combination of my own and ones stolen from others.

I don't have pictures of Friday night and Saturday day for myself, but I did get the rest, so here's the quick list of what I wore:

Saturday Night Titanic Dinner )

Sunday Day: Let Them Eat Crepes & Mad Tea Party )

Sunday Evening: Tiaras and Jampagne )

And that's Dress U for me!
miss_philomena: (Default)
Or, what happens when the taffeta you use for lining is stiffer than the fashion fabric.

miss_philomena: (Default)

So I ran out to AC Moore earlier to pick up some hat boxes. They're 50% off right now, btw~~ the large ones fit everything but my big straw and wool felt hats from Williamsburg, so those will have to go in a plastic tote or something, I suppose. I also labeled them all so I'll know exactly what is in each box xD

Posted via LiveJournal app for iPhone.


May. 11th, 2011 10:15 pm
miss_philomena: (1875 train)
so scrapbook isn't working with the lj.app or something? Not cool, LJ. Your force me to email my pictures to myself just so I can upload them here. 365 pics will have to wait until LJ decides to behave again.

But anyway, stripy natural form update! Okay technically it's not an update because I haven't done anything else, but I took a picture! :D It still needs hemming, but that shouldn't take too long. And then all I really need to do is the bodice! I still need to cut the flatlining for that before I can piece it. I'm flatlining the main body with the same green striped cotton I used for the underskirt, and I'm gonna bagline the sleeves with probably some white silk taffeta I have in my stash. And I'm still trying to decide exactly how I want to trim this. Because the silk itself is such a bold design, I think I might only do some ivory lace around the neckline and end of the sleeves. And I think I'm gonna do either ivory or gold buttons on the bodice too.

big pic )

Now, for a bit of planning~ I think the next thing I'm going to work on is a summer bustle gown a la the 1872 dress I posted the other day. I was originally thinking of some type of floral print like the original, but then I remembered I have a lovely blue striped cotton gauze in my stash. It always comes back to stripes, what can I say? So not only to I want a nice light summer gown, I want it for something specific. That being Belvidere's Victorian Days this September. Which also means I'll probably need a white or light colored corset, instead of my black one. >_> But I've got a pattern I already like, so I'd just need to make another one.

ETA: works so much better when I get the html right >_>;;
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream fan)
So, there was both good and bad when it came to Costume Con. But we talked enough about the bad while it happened that I don't really feel like revisiting it here. xD Instead I'll just say that seeing old friends and meeting new ones was awesome. So hello there new friends!

There weren't really any large, easily accessible mirrors, but windows at night work well~

And in the spirit of laziness, here's a nice neat little link to my pictures from the weekend. :3 CosCon pics

In the spirit of non-laziness I spent yesterday working on my next dress. I traced off TV's Hermione overskirt and 1880 dinner bodice, and drafted up a fantail underskirt pattern as well. I picked up some green striped taffeta back when I went on my ebay splurge in February, and while I'd originally planned to use it for an 18th century polonaise, I decided once I got it that I wanted it for something Victorian. I cut out the bodice and overskirt yesterday, but since most of the underskirt won't be visible, I'm going to cut it out of plain cotton first and only add the striped silk along the bottom. Once I have the overskirt sewn up (probably tomorrow) I'll be able to figure out just how high up the silk will need to go. Pictures of that once I start sewing~
miss_philomena: (pierrot fan)
I was just feeling a bit under the weather for a few days, and despite only taking two classes this semester, they're already running me ragged.

Anyway, the first and most important thing: Poe pictures! Anyone who wants to is welcome to snag stuff. I can also supply high-res full size (3008x2000 pixels) for anyone that wants them.

I was also very productive yesterday and basically finished my capote. I sewed the straw brim over a month ago, and I finally dug out the silk for the crown. The lace is only pinned on, but I'm still deciding if that's how I want to do it. The first two are obviously pre-assembly, and the second two are how it currently looks.

The green is a bit brighter than the striped silk I'm using for the polonaise, but I'm choosing to ignore that fact. I also had originally planned to use silver trim for the outfit, but I pulled out a burnished gold and green trim that looks amazing with the stripe, so it's not quite a Slytherin polonaise now. Strange as it sounds, the gold is a little more subtle than the silver, and I like the little bit of warmth it pulls in.

I tore the panels for the skirt and overskirt the other day, and as soon as I unearth my pinking shears I'll start cutting the ruffles and working on them as well. With the stripe on the cross-grain planning it out takes a bit more fabric, so I ended up picking up the rest of the what the store had, bringing me up to 14.5 yards total, half of which is going to the ruffles. Because the ruffle on the skirt is so deep, I can only cut three out of the width, so the underskirt will need 3 yards just for the ruffles. I can cut five ruffles for the overskirt out of the width, so that'll take less fabric, luckily. And the neckline only needs a 1" ruffle, so that will just get pieced out of what's left over after I cut the bodice. I'll probably start the actual sewing next week.

New purse!

Feb. 3rd, 2009 09:10 pm
miss_philomena: (red bridge)
I've started working on a new purse in a completely new style. It's a Miser's Purse, knit from a 1912 pattern, using the "old purse stitch". I'm using DMC Cébélia thead size 30 and size 11 czech glass seed beads, with size 0000 knitting needles.

After 10 pattern rows:


After 20 pattern rows:

If anyone is interested I can type up the directions for the purse stitch.

Also, I'm still organizing my Poe Birthday pictures, but I'll try and get them posted today as well.

miss_philomena: (Default)
Plugging along... I didn't finish this today like I'd planned, mainly because of how long the other sleeve will take to do. I've got the skirt pieced, and I've pleated the front panel and am in the process of shirring the back panels. Each panel is the full width of the fabric, 60", so it takes a while.

Anyway, pictures of the bodice so far.

As you can see, the shirring on the sleeve gives it the distinctive 1830s fullness at the elbow.
miss_philomena: (grey purple plaid)

I had the bottom band basted on as well, but the skirt ended up too short, so I took it off. I might do some more sewing tonight, otherwise I should finish tomorrow. I need to tack down the bias along the neckline; it's flipped up on the back view photo. The coat should only take a day or so to do, then I can whip up my mom's outfit.

miss_philomena: (grey purple plaid)
I didn't work on my dress at all today, but apart from one last line of ribbon, my bonnet is done. Yay!

I'm about 75% decided on the wide ribbon that's just pinned to the brim. I think I want to keep it. And the ribbon over the lace is only pinned on the inside, but I'll get to it at some point.


Jan. 17th, 2009 04:40 pm
miss_philomena: (grey purple plaid)
I meant to do more than I did yesterday, I swear. I tore the plaid pieces for the skirt and sewed it up last night. I intended to cartridge pleat the back two panels, but I couldn't get the gauge right, so instead I did flat pleats. Oh well. I have to decide how wide I want to do the velvet bands now. I'm thinking 7 or 8 inches wide, and 3 or 4 inches apart. I might cut the bottom one wider, because it will also form the hem. Expect skirt pictures later tonight. I've also added a sleeve and half the collar to my bodice mockup, so I'll try that on later as well. If everything works out well, I might even cut out the bodice and lining at some point tonight as well. While I don't think I'll have the dress finished by the end of tomorrow, I might shoot for the end of Monday. I'm feeling good about it, and I wanna keep pushing with it.

And so this post isn't all text, yesterday I played with my hair!

My bun is a bit too low, and it's sticking out further than it would normally because it's not pinned, I just put a hairtie around it to keep it up. And in the second picture you can see my bonnet, which is lined, but I haven't put the outer fabric or any of the trim yet. My mom and I are going up to Manhattan at some point this coming week, and M & J is on the lsit of places to go. We need ribbons and such for both of our bonnets, as well as something for her mantle.

miss_philomena: (catherine hand)
...when it was sewn ages ago?

A [livejournal.com profile] charlesii post!

Okay, I actually sewed this up back in November, but I didn't bother taking pictures until today.

The tabs need to be cut higher up on my hips, and that'll fix the big wrinkles wrapping around the sides. I also plan to cut the side piece higher along the armhole up towards the side front seam, because currently it sits at an uncomfortable and unflattering angle. But other than that, I have a working bodice mockup!

I have some yellow linen that I might use for the boned lining, for a little bit of brightness under all that grey. Either that or I might pick up some pink or blue linen to coordinate with whatever color ribbon I decide to use.


miss_philomena: (Default)

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