So today I did the overskirt and started working on ruffles. I have the ruffle for the overskirt ready to be put on it, but I haven't pinned it on yet, let alone sewn it. But have a picture anyway! Or better yet, two~
I can't decide yet if I want to bustle the overskirt or not. I think it'll have to wait until I have my ruffles and basque to decide, so I can see the finished look.
Also, you can see just how sheer the fabric is in the bodice. I need a corset cover to hide my black corset.
But I started on my next project, a summer bustle gown, even though summer is almost over. Summer weather isn't, at any rate. I'm using this fabric, which is a yellow and shiny sheer plaid. (Check? Windowpane? What exactly is this pattern?) I dug out my bustle skirt pattern and somehow my side back piece is missing. dklgjsklgnlskdjglsdkng So I cheated and just cut a slightly longer side front for the side back and all is good. The center back is just a full width of fabric, like I usually cut, though I still need to trim down the top into a curve. I cut this one short too, with only a sweep rather than a long train like I usually do. I've only got the back half of the skirt so far, and because it's so sheer I did French seams for it.
I plan to put ruffles the whole way up the back before I add the front half of the skirt. I just need to decide how long I want the ruffles to be. There's going to be one deep ruffle going the whole way around the bottom of the skirt, then tiers over it on the back. I'm not sure if they should be all the same size or get smaller as they go up, but I might play around and pin some of different sizes on. We'll see.
In other parts of the dress, I think I'm going to do a bodice with a belt and a basque, and I'm still thinking about what to do with the skirt front.
( a slightly crappy pic of the plain skirt back )
I don't have pictures of Friday night and Saturday day for myself, but I did get the rest, so here's the quick list of what I wore:
( Saturday Night Titanic Dinner )
( Sunday Day: Let Them Eat Crepes & Mad Tea Party )
( Sunday Evening: Tiaras and Jampagne )
And that's Dress U for me!
I'm about go to start on the white and red dress too. I think all the fabric is done drying by now. I also decided rather than try and find white eyelet with red embroidery, it's just going to be a fully white dress with a red sash.
Then my sari for my Titanic dinner gown should be arriving tomorrow, so fingers crossed~ It's only taken me a month and a half to get it, after the first one I ordered was damaged in processing and I had to pick out a new one. Dx
I'm teaching a class at Dress U, first thing on Friday afternoon, 4pm-7pm. It's how to make knit beaded Victorian (and earlier and later) purses. Only two people signed up for it, but that should make things go faster and easier, I hope. Dress U itself says you can't get into the class day of, but I was planning on making some extra kits for it anyway, so I have no problem accepting extra people as long as they pay for it. We'll see, I guess~
I decided a couple days ago, rather than killing myself trying to make the copper and blue gown, and a Titanic gown as well in just about two weeks, I dug through the stash (though not really because it was on the top of the pile) and pulled out my green striped natural form outfit.
The underskirt and overskirt were already mostly done. I just had to finish the waistbands of both and tack down the overskirt's pleats, which I've done, and hem the underskirt, which I haven't yet. I have bound the hem though, so I just need to turn it up now. The bodice was also about half done. I'd pieced the back, the sleeves, and the collar already, and pinned the flatlining to the front, so I basted the fronts, sewed the darts, and on it went to the back. I haven't set the sleeves in yet because they aren't lined yet, and the collar will get sewn on when I do the neckline. I'm not really doing much in the way of trim for this outfit, since the fabric is already so loud. I think just gold buttons down the front, and I'm toying with using some gold piping I have along the neckline and bottom of the bodice. I'm still deciding on that.
Anyway, the whole point of this gown when I started it last year was to go with the metallic green leather hat I bought from The Blonde Swan last year at Costume Con. So that means once I finish sewing I'll be set for the Mad Hatter tea party~
The main focus of the day was getting fabric for Mom's dress for the Titanic dinner. She's going with this Liberty of London gown from the Met. She decided to go with a nice light sage green for the color, and we found some lovely silk charmeuse for it.
As for me, I picked up a wild purple and blue dupioni. I'm thinking of a combination of this and this for it. I don't know when I'm going to do it, but probably not for Dress U.
On the other hand, I did pick up fabric for something I am going to do for Dress U. I got this striped blue and copper silk a few months ago, but there was only three and a half yards, so it got binned while I contemplated what to do with it. I finally decided what to do for the Mad Hatter tea party, so I grabbed the solid copper silk today for my idea. The color match really is a lot better than it looks in this picture. So anyway, what I want to do is basically this gown with some slight differences, make it a bit steampunkish. I'm only going to do one tier on the skirt, so it'll be knee length instead, and the bodice/collar might be a bit different as well. I'll figure that out when I actually start working on it. And this also means I'll need to make myself a short bustle, as I only have my long lobstertail bustle and the 1872 hooped bustle from Corsets and Crinolines.
And lastly, we hit a couple of the stores in the wholesale district to pick up some jewelry. I grabbed a couple nice choker sets, as well as some hair pins, and lastly an adorable pair of fascinators. The one looks kind of blue in this picture, but it's actually bright purple.
And that was today \o/
I also want to make a nicer petticoat than the plain white one I wore at CosCon. I have a few yards of eyelet, so I'll probably use that. I think I'm going to do a yoke for that to keep the very top of the bustle smooth.
But I think most of all I'm in an accessories mood. I just dug through a bag of vintage gloves I have and pulled out four pairs that fit me. One pair is white fabric, two pairs are kid leather, one white and one pink, and a lovely suede pair that are burgundy. I'm also really itching to make some more hats. IDK, they're just so much fun. I've got a blue straw hat I picked up a while back from Goodwill that I'm going to use to make a little topper hat to go with my summer bustle. And even though I don't really have anything to wear with it I'm in the mood to make a ridiculously large hat, either something like the giant purple hat Kate Winslet wore in her first scene in Titanic, or a large high-crowned 1780s hat. We'll see, I suppose~
But anyway, stripy natural form update! Okay technically it's not an update because I haven't done anything else, but I took a picture! :D It still needs hemming, but that shouldn't take too long. And then all I really need to do is the bodice! I still need to cut the flatlining for that before I can piece it. I'm flatlining the main body with the same green striped cotton I used for the underskirt, and I'm gonna bagline the sleeves with probably some white silk taffeta I have in my stash. And I'm still trying to decide exactly how I want to trim this. Because the silk itself is such a bold design, I think I might only do some ivory lace around the neckline and end of the sleeves. And I think I'm gonna do either ivory or gold buttons on the bodice too.
( big pic )
Now, for a bit of planning~ I think the next thing I'm going to work on is a summer bustle gown a la the 1872 dress I posted the other day. I was originally thinking of some type of floral print like the original, but then I remembered I have a lovely blue striped cotton gauze in my stash. It always comes back to stripes, what can I say? So not only to I want a nice light summer gown, I want it for something specific. That being Belvidere's Victorian Days this September. Which also means I'll probably need a white or light colored corset, instead of my black one. >_> But I've got a pattern I already like, so I'd just need to make another one.
ETA: works so much better when I get the html right >_>;;
What, you ask, have I been experimenting on? I've been intrigued with the 1872 bustle hoop from Corsets and Crinolines, and so I've been playing with it. I'll admit, I've made mistakes every step of the way, but as this first one is only the trial, I'm not as worried about it. It's also made of two different types of fabric, and two unmatching colors of bias tape. Apart from the waistband it's all pieced together, though because I ran out of hooping steel it only has the bustle steels and the bottom most hoop. But my new stuff arrived today, so I plan to finish it tomorrow hopefully. But even with most of it's hoops missing, I'm already loving the shape of the bustle. Have a couple (fuzzy cameraphone) pictures! (With bonus Watteau bustle).
There isn't just bustle across the very back. It actually comes around my hips, adding some soft fullness there that's a part of the early bustle silhouette that looks lovely, if I do say so. I'm eager to see how it looks once I finish it up.
I've also started planning my next project as well. I've wanted to make an 18th century mantua for a while now, when the style became a bit more defined and regulated. My first plan was to style it after the 1710s mantua in the V&A, but now I'm thinking I want to go a touch earlier, before it became standard to loop the train up. And I can't deny that I've always been drawn to the Met's 1708 mantua. I've been looking at all the pictures of it for a while today, trying to figure out how exactly they arranged the poofs in the back, and I think, rather than folding the skirt back over itself and securing it at the center back waist, they either tucked the sides under, or just much lower, and then puffed a bit of the back up over it to make that big puff. You can kind of see that it was done slightly differently in the two different sets of pictures, as the train is longer in one set.
As for fabric for the mantua, I have my eye on a couple damasks on ebay, and if those fall through, I'll just look for something in New York next time I'm up there. I'd really prefer a damask or brocade, but worse comes to worse I'll use something solid. (I'm holding out for a specific damask, though, if it doesn't go too high. >_>)
In other news, I picked up the 'Fashioning Fashion' book yesterday at Barnes and Noble. And thanks to a coupon and mom's membership, it came out to $35 instead of $55. I like saving lots of money on pretty books~ :3 I wish I could see the exhibit in person, but sadly that's not possible.
Hmm... I think that's all I need to post on for now. Maybe tomorrow, if I get everything cut out and pieced, I'll have pictures to share. :3
Posted via Journaler.
Okay, this is an attempt to plan out what I want to do over the next three and a half months for Costume Con. Now, taking into account classes and a part-time job with my usual speed, I'm going to try for two outfits a month. Once I make a new pair of drawers and finish my fully boned stays, I won't need to factor in undies time. Anyway, here's a tentative schedule.
1660s Catherine-Charlotte de Gramont, Princess of Monaco for charlesii.
Secret Project for the Masq
Of course, if I finish stuff faster than I plan (which I probably will), things will get bumped up. Unfortunately, my budget won't allow for the duchesse satin for the 1660s gown until March, but if I can, the April dresses will get bumped up sooner because I already have the fabric for all of them, leaving more time for the March dresses.
ETA: wow that's a lot of tags. XD
ETA2: I've put up an ij mirror account, but I'm not worried about needing it. It's there just in case. Feel free to friend it.
I decided on this 1875 plate, because I love the false vest look.
Much as I'd really love to use a plaid for this, I have to go with what's on hand (and I'm already working on another plaid winter dress). I dug out some dark blue velvet and some striped blue silk that I've had for ages. I'll take a picture tomorrow probably.
And to go with it, a coat, of course.
If I can, I'd like to use some bright blue wool flannel that I have, but it'll be a tight squeeze because I only have 4 yards of the 60" wide stuff. Depending on how it looks, I'll either use the dark blue velvet to trim the coat as well, or some white silk velvet I have tucked away. If I don't have enough for a full length coat, I'll go with something shorter. I have a few doleman patterns I can pick from.
In other news, I have a mockup for my Poe plaid dress sewn, I just haven't bothered to try it on with my corset yet. I finish the semester on Tuesday though, and I'm going to try and have both of these outfits fully finished by the end of the month. Well, the 1875 set has to be done my then away, since the stoll is on January 3rd.
Because I can't work on just one project at once, I've got the bodice for an 1874 evening gown cut out, and need to work on that some. Not much else to say at this point, other than I need to scan in the plate I'm using as inspiration for that.
Only two projects at once? Are you kidding? I can't leave well enough alone, and have started on an 18th century project as well. I've pulled out fabric and traced off the pattern, and at some point soon I'll start on a set of stays. This set caught my eye, mainly because of the decorative lacing up the front, and what appears to be wavy cording. I can't consider the lacing functional, anyway, because it doesn't lace all the way down, and it doesn't look like it meant to be opened there either. "Fitting and Proper" also features a set of stays that has that bit of lacing at the front, and the angled boning. The McCord Museum's stays simply seem a more elaborate version of those. Anyway, I plan to use some hunter green cotton satteen I dug out as the face fabric, and will have to keep an eye out for a nice ivory cotton or linen tape for the binding before class next week. If I take an earlier train I should have more than enough time to run over to M&J first.
Originally I'd planned to trim my hat in red and black, to go with the only dress I have done at the moment, but it just didn't want to work. I'll still wear the hat Sunday when I do nice (outside) pictures, but it's just not quite a perfect match. Not in my perfectionist eyes, anyway.
I need to sew the flowers down yet; at the moment they're just pinned. This just means that now I need to make a pink and ivory dress to go with my hat. But it'll have to wait a bit, because I've already decided on my next two projects.
Speaking of which, here's a peak at what's next for me. I absolutely love the Victorian takes on historical clothing, so I couldn't pass up on this one when I found the plate earlier today. Now I need to go digging through my stash to see if I have anything I might want to use.