But this means I'll be good to go for Poe! Just need to dig my bonnet and coat out tonight.
Anyway, the first and most important thing: Poe pictures! Anyone who wants to is welcome to snag stuff. I can also supply high-res full size (3008x2000 pixels) for anyone that wants them.
I was also very productive yesterday and basically finished my capote. I sewed the straw brim over a month ago, and I finally dug out the silk for the crown. The lace is only pinned on, but I'm still deciding if that's how I want to do it. The first two are obviously pre-assembly, and the second two are how it currently looks.
The green is a bit brighter than the striped silk I'm using for the polonaise, but I'm choosing to ignore that fact. I also had originally planned to use silver trim for the outfit, but I pulled out a burnished gold and green trim that looks amazing with the stripe, so it's not quite a Slytherin polonaise now. Strange as it sounds, the gold is a little more subtle than the silver, and I like the little bit of warmth it pulls in.
I tore the panels for the skirt and overskirt the other day, and as soon as I unearth my pinking shears I'll start cutting the ruffles and working on them as well. With the stripe on the cross-grain planning it out takes a bit more fabric, so I ended up picking up the rest of the what the store had, bringing me up to 14.5 yards total, half of which is going to the ruffles. Because the ruffle on the skirt is so deep, I can only cut three out of the width, so the underskirt will need 3 yards just for the ruffles. I can cut five ruffles for the overskirt out of the width, so that'll take less fabric, luckily. And the neckline only needs a 1" ruffle, so that will just get pieced out of what's left over after I cut the bodice. I'll probably start the actual sewing next week.
I had the bottom band basted on as well, but the skirt ended up too short, so I took it off. I might do some more sewing tonight, otherwise I should finish tomorrow. I need to tack down the bias along the neckline; it's flipped up on the back view photo. The coat should only take a day or so to do, then I can whip up my mom's outfit.
And on a completely seperate note, and the realization that I haven't talked about them at all yet-- I've got a pretty large ABJD collection. I enjoy writing, though I don't consider myself particularly amazing at it, and a number of my characters have come to life, so to speak, as dolls. The third anniversary of my first doll is coming up soon, so starting on that day, February 3rd, I'm going to (attempt to) post a doll a day, with a couple of pictures and possibly a short bio. Not all of them have been painted, but it'll be something fun for me to do, and a way to get back into photographing them more regularly. So keep an eye out on the 3rd!
I've also started covering the bonnet as well. I'm using a brown cotton velveteen for the outer fabric. I've got the crown cut, gathered and pinned on. I'll baste it down and then put on the brim. I'm leaning towards using blue ribbons for trim to match the blue stripes on the silk. We'll see what I like when I go up to M&J.
And so this post isn't all text, yesterday I played with my hair!
My bun is a bit too low, and it's sticking out further than it would normally because it's not pinned, I just put a hairtie around it to keep it up. And in the second picture you can see my bonnet, which is lined, but I haven't put the outer fabric or any of the trim yet. My mom and I are going up to Manhattan at some point this coming week, and M & J is on the lsit of places to go. We need ribbons and such for both of our bonnets, as well as something for her mantle.
I put everything on to measure for my skirts, and I also tried on a mockup of my bodice. Everything's looking good, so I'm going to start working on the skirts tonight. I have eyelet that I plan to make the top petticoat with, and then the actual dress skirt.
The velvet collar will go mostly above the neckline, only overlapping the bodice at the center front and back. Once I make the bodice I'll drape it on.
I'm going to use the darted underbodice for the outside, rather than the shirred front. I'm also going to shir the top and bottom few inches of the sleeve to further the 1830s look.
I'm also going to use another Fashion Historian pattern for the base of her mantle. Since it'll be made out of wool, I'm not going to put the flounces on, but we haven't decided on an alternate trim or lining yet.
As for myself, I think I want to use Period Impressions' 1860s paletote pattern for my own coat, with a few modifications as well. The sleeves are huge, I plan to cut them shorter. Depending on how I can squeeze it on to my fabric, I might also cut the bottom even, rather than longer in the back.
Also, I sewed up the braid for the capote brim. Once I finish removing the paper backing I used as a guide, I'll wire the edge and then take pictures. I don't know what I'll use for the crown yet, but that can wait a bit.
(Please excuse the messy sewing room)
And here it is with a couple of petticoats on the left, and with the dress fabric draped over it on the left. The bonnet frame is for my mom. I've wired and put the flannel on it, but I still need to bind the edges and cover it, obviously.
And on a different note, I've decided to jump in on the polonaise bandwagon. I fell in love with this polonaise in the Kyoto Costume Institute the very first time I saw it. To keep up with the theme I'm doing with my green 1869 villainess gown, I'm going to use a green and black stiped dupioni I have, and trim it with silver. Along with self trim I want to use some silver, so it'll be my Slytherin polonaise.
I think I'm going to take a break from the Poe dress tonight and start working on the black straw capote to go with my polonaise. I won't start working on the polonaise itself until I finish everything for the Poe event.
Okay, this is an attempt to plan out what I want to do over the next three and a half months for Costume Con. Now, taking into account classes and a part-time job with my usual speed, I'm going to try for two outfits a month. Once I make a new pair of drawers and finish my fully boned stays, I won't need to factor in undies time. Anyway, here's a tentative schedule.
1660s Catherine-Charlotte de Gramont, Princess of Monaco for charlesii.
Secret Project for the Masq
Of course, if I finish stuff faster than I plan (which I probably will), things will get bumped up. Unfortunately, my budget won't allow for the duchesse satin for the 1660s gown until March, but if I can, the April dresses will get bumped up sooner because I already have the fabric for all of them, leaving more time for the March dresses.
ETA: wow that's a lot of tags. XD
ETA2: I've put up an ij mirror account, but I'm not worried about needing it. It's there just in case. Feel free to friend it.
September, 2008: The Red Stripy Bustle
While I'd had the undies sewn for a while, the dress itself I did in three days. I wanted something bright for Saloncon, and this definitely qualifies.
December, 2008: Revolution in a Week
Basically, the only parts of this I didn't make in a one week rush were my shoes, stockings, and hat blank. Upon extended wearing I've decided the front of my half-boned stays need to be recut, because currently they're a bit too short and wide across the bust. But that's for later.
And for 2009, I have quite the list.
- 1560s Teal Venetian
- Catherine-Charlotte de Gramont, Princess of Monaco(1660s), for charlesii. I plan to get this done for Costume Con in May.
- 1775 Pink Brocade Caraco
- 1780s Chemise à la Reine
- 1791 Purple Sari Pierrot Jacket and Skirt
- 1844 Grey and Lavender Plaid, for the Poe Bicentennial events this month.
- 1872 Watteau Bustle Gown
- 1874 Light Blue Evening Gown (left)
- 1875 Winter Striped Walking Suit
- 1920s Print Silk Dress, adaptation
I have ideas for a few more things, and I need at least one Vampires, Villains and Vixens outfit, but this is most definitely enough for the first half of 2009.
I decided on this 1875 plate, because I love the false vest look.
Much as I'd really love to use a plaid for this, I have to go with what's on hand (and I'm already working on another plaid winter dress). I dug out some dark blue velvet and some striped blue silk that I've had for ages. I'll take a picture tomorrow probably.
And to go with it, a coat, of course.
If I can, I'd like to use some bright blue wool flannel that I have, but it'll be a tight squeeze because I only have 4 yards of the 60" wide stuff. Depending on how it looks, I'll either use the dark blue velvet to trim the coat as well, or some white silk velvet I have tucked away. If I don't have enough for a full length coat, I'll go with something shorter. I have a few doleman patterns I can pick from.
In other news, I have a mockup for my Poe plaid dress sewn, I just haven't bothered to try it on with my corset yet. I finish the semester on Tuesday though, and I'm going to try and have both of these outfits fully finished by the end of the month. Well, the 1875 set has to be done my then away, since the stoll is on January 3rd.
One of the other stores in Philly had the most gorgeous teal/peacock green heavy silk satin, for an amazing $19 a yard. I'm half tempted to go back and get it, even though there's probably only 3 yards or so. It'd be enough for a long-sleeved 1650s bodice, at the very least. Maybe tomorrow. It really was an amazing color, even if I do prefer the bluer end of the teal range.
Time to pass out now. *running on about 2 hours of sleep*
For my wallet's sake, I can't do anything new, but I can try and whip up the 1844 dress I'm planning. I picked up an extra 5 yards of the plaid last week, and I'll be going down to Philly on Tuesday, so I can see about getting more of the velvet then.
I didn't post about this before, but I'm also planning a bonnet, coat, and muff to semi-coordinate. This is the coat I'm planning to do, with an inverted color scheme. I have three or four yards of bright blue wool flannel that I want to use for the body, and I'm thinking maybe light blue velvet or satin for the trim. I'm going to pick up some quilted cotton for the lining, probably white. If I had more time I'd quilt it myself with a silk face and cotton batting, but I'll just have to live with the premade poly batting stuff. I might double-line the top of the sleeves with silk, just to make it easier to put on, but a number of plates show quilted linings for coats and capes, so mine will be visible as well.
I've started the buckram frame for the bonnet, but can't get any further till I dig out my millinery wire. I saw it recently, so it can't be too far down in the black hole known as my sewing room. I plan to make the bonnet blue as well, as I've seen in several fashion plates. I know I have a darker purple-blue silk floating around, but I might have something brighter as well.
I'm trying to decide if I want to make a lace cap as well. I don't technically need one, since I'm not married, but I like the look of it in the plate. Oh well, a decision for another day.
I have a pair of antique fur muffs packed away somewhere, one of which is fairly large. I'm pretty sure that's the one that needs to be relined though, so I'll have to do that as well. Not that it'll take long, it's just a tube. I don't remember what color it is though. I know the smaller one is black, but I can only fit one hand in it at a time, so it wouldn't be very useful for me.
Before I get any further, though, I need to make up petticoats for this.
I'm definitely liking the plaid dress on the right, and since it's a November 1844 plate, it'll be a great starting point for the Poe event in January. I've even got fabric that'll work for it, sort of. I think the pink really makes it, don't you? I say sort of, because I only have three yards of the plaid, and I'll probably want another three to four, since it's only 45". I'll have to stop in before my class Tuesday to see if they have anymore, because it's been almost a year since I bought it. I'll also need more of the velvet, but that'll have to wait until I know if I can get more of the silk. Plus it's from Philly, which is the opposite direction, and requires driving down there.
But first things first, this outfit needs a whole new set of undies. I'm quite tempted to just use my 1870s corset, rather than make a new one, so for now I'll just start on all the petticoats I'll need.