miss_philomena: (Default)
First, the Mid-Atlantic Air Museum's WWII weekend!

The usual suspects went, and like usual I will lazily link to their posts (Amanda, Alice, and will add Robin and Jess if they write something eventually). I actually arrived at the agreed upon time, everyone else rolled up an hour later. This is a huge and popular event, so parking was quite a distance away, and a school bur ride to get to the entrance!

I was feeling quite spiffy if I do say so myself. And immensely glad I decided on my way out the door to bring my sweater just in case, because it turned out to be chilly! I don't think it got over 68F. Not usual for early June around here, jsyk. For my hair I did Victory Rolls in the front, perhaps a little smaller than they could've been, but I didn't have a lot of space to work in with my hat. The back I just rolled up.

Untitled Untitled
I'm honestly a bit meh about this dress. It was much cuter in my head than in actually sewing. I had more fun with accessories instead. I picked up my hat on eBay, and the sweater is a modern one, but I spruced it up with some antique button pins and an adorable vintage (probably 50s) chain with red, white, and blue rhinestones.

The event was definitely fun, and I'd love someday to actually drive out my 1936 coupe, but when it's an hour and a half each way, and I'd need to have the car on site for setup Thursday, and not be able to get it home until Sunday, that'd require being there the whole weekend. So maybe some year further down, but 99.9% not for next year. It's been sitting for a while and needs some work anyway. But how much fun would it be, to be able to drive around with people in costume in the rumble seat in the back?

There was a flea market there, and I bought a very cute pair of mid-length yellow cotton gloves. No idea what I'll wear them with, but they were too cute to pass on, and actually fit! And completely randomly, I also bought a Victorian black crepe mourning veil. It probably won't go to Gettyburg this year, because I don't have a mourning outfit planned, nor do I have fabric for it, so it'll have to wait.

My full flickr album is here.

On a different note, this week has been a headwear week!

Headwear Headwear Headwear
While I absolutely adore my gigantic and insane silk gauze cap, it's a bit impractical for regular wear. So Monday evening I cut and started a new cap using the Kannik's Korner 1740-1820 cap pattern, and finished it Tuesday afternoon. The pattern has been in my stash for ages, along with a yard of silk organza I purchased around the same time, to make said cap. I kept it fairly simple, with a single pleated split ruffle. My construction method is not the standard hem every piece separately and then whip it all together. Instead I used the method I was taught by Janae Whitacre of Williamsburg's Margaret Hunter Millinery Shop. This method is: turn down a small seam allowance, here a hair under 1/4", on the band piece. Lay it over the pleated ruffle, then baste the pieces together, done here in black. Then cover the raw edges with a 1/4" silk ribbon, stitching through all layers on both edges of the ribbon. Repeat for the caul. This creates a single layer cap with no raw edges, and it actually gets finished in a timely manner. I constructed my giant ruffle beast cap the same way.

Headwear Headwear Headwear Headwear
My other bit of headwear this week is a spoon bonnet! It's mostly finished, and was intended to wear tomorrow for a Victorian Picnic here in Philly, but we've switched from hoops to natural form so it'll have to wait for it's first outing. I'm going to put the crown lining in after lunch, as well as the ties and curtain. But I'm going to hold off on trimming it for now, and wait until I actually need it. [personal profile] mandie_rw made the buckram frame for me, and mulled it as well, so all I had to do was cover and decorate it. I used a shot blue and pink semi-slubby dupioni for the outside, and the same pink taffeta from my gown for the big-ass hat tea earlier this year. The ties are the pink silk as well, and I'll probably put white feathers and flowers of some color on the outside eventually.
miss_philomena: (Default)
Well I got my pet en l'air all finished and had a lovely time wearing it yesterday! Both [personal profile] robinsnest and [personal profile] mandie_rw did their write ups here and here, so I won't rehash everything. The original plan had been to have a Pre-Raphaelite picnic out at Valley Forge, but that fell through. And with the on and off rain throughout the day it's just as well we didn't!

I'm very happy with my pet, and only have a couple small tweaks to make. The stomacher needs to be shortened, because it's too long for my taste, and I need to shorten the shoulder straps. But those are both fairly easy to do!

I wore the pet with my faux taffeta petticoat, silk gauze cap, silk gauze bonnet, and silk pinball, which is actually made with scraps from two of my New Castle plaids. It was on the chillier side, so I also pulled out my old linen mitts, which are brown linen lined with purple silk noil, and a square of cotton lawn that will be hemmed at some point and become a legit kerchief. Shoes are AD Dunmores, and some day I'll decide what color I want to dye them.

Silk Sunday in Haddonfield Silk Sunday in Haddonfield

The entirety of my pictures are here!

miss_philomena: (Default)
Only six months after the event!

New Castle was very enjoyable, and called for everything new. There was a (very close quarters) ball Friday night, and Saturday was spent strolling around town and visiting some of the houses, and generally looking decorative. I'm going to be lazy and link to other's posts for a rundown of the event itself, again, six months ago. Amanda, Robin, and Alice.

This is long so I'm gonna put all the pictures and talk behind a cut!  )And there you have it!


Sep. 12th, 2016 10:28 pm
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
picture from [livejournal.com profile] sewloud

I made a new outfit for Belvidere this past Saturday. And I mean everything. The only thing that wasn't new was my hat. Chemise, pantaloons and corset were all new. I may or may not post pictures of those some day.

Wanting a natural form summer gown, I bought 30 yards of hand block printed cotton voile on Etsy. It was the best price, being $25 for five yards, $50 for ten yards, or $70 for 30 yards. I put almost half of it into this outfit anyway, so it's just as well I bought that much!

I used one of Butterick's costume patterns for the underskirt, adding a drawstring and a tie to get the natural form shape, Truly Victorian's 362 Wash overskirt, and 462 Tail bodice. Yes, those are both technically late bustle patterns, but the overskirt pattern notes mention it being in an 1882 advertisement as well, without a bustle underneath.

I really love the outfit, I just need to do a little more work on my corset. I need to put more boning in to better support the girls, but everything I have on hand is too long at the moment. I'll get to it at some point.
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
For which I actually had an Anglaise! Or Italian/quarter back gown. I'm not sure if it's considered an Anglaise if it doesn't have the en fourreau pleats? I have seen some 1780s plates referring to this style as an Italian gown, and I've seen other costumers call it a quarter back gown. Anyway.

I pretty much did a straight copy of a gown I found on Pinterest. Board with pictures here! I just loved the chevron back and the cuff on it. The only thing I didn't do was the pleated trim, because I just didn't have the fabric for it. I only had five yards total, and I wanted the skirt as full as possible. The center back bodice panels are pieced to keep the bodice and sleeves made out of only one yard of fabric so that the rest could go to the skirt.

The fabric is a satin striped silk, the same one [livejournal.com profile] mandie_rw used in her jacket, though in a different colorway. I bought it on eBay years ago and it's lingered in the stash for quite some time. I'd actually initially planned to make this gown, albeit as a round gown, for the Battle of Trenton Ball back in December, but schoolwork and things with Mom prevented that. But I got it whipped up last week, along with two new petticoats, and wearable for the luncheon Sunday!

I failed to take pictures myself, so these are shamelessly stolen from Amanda.

050_zps9y5emnpe 051_zpsbhjajwln 053_zps9c55es7m

It was drizzling lightly so I wore the gown retroussée dans les poches, or pulled through the pocket slits. All I did was stick my hands through the pockets, gather up a bunch of the skirt in my hands, and pull it up and through. Not evenly, either, as I can see the center back seam leaning right in the pictures, haha. With it I have a sheer striped cotton petticoat on, as well as a plain white muslin petticoat, both of which I whipped up Friday, and my quilted petticoat on the bottom. I accessorized with my carnation pinball, tiny green silk twill reticule, round cap with a red silk ribbon, and a bonnet I made years and years ago that was meant to go with a back and green striped polonaise gown I still haven't made. (Someday...) The brim is paper straw made using Lynn McMasters' Early 19 Century Seaside Bonnet, and the crown is just a circle of green dupioni that was gathered, bound, and whipped onto the brim. (The mitts are cheater mitts- I couldn't find my brown linen ones so I grabbed these. They're actually a greyish purple knit, a Christmas present from my almost-aunt, and completely modern, but the perfect shape, so I grabbed them to keep my arms warm while outside.)

One thing I feel I should point out: the giant V stripe on the back, that goes from shoulder to waist to shoulder? That was 100% accidental. I only made sure the center back seam stripes lined up properly, and didn't even bother to compare the stripes on the side back pieces to the center back. I didn't even notice it until I looked at the pictures after Amanda posted them!

non-costume related life whining )
miss_philomena: (yellow court face)
DSCN0334 DSCN0333 DSCN0332

I'll be doing a proper write-up about my robe à la piémontaise by the weekend. I had a lot of fun making it, and of course a lot of fun wearing it too!
(It's so exciting being able to tag this finished!)
miss_philomena: (bib front)

The Challenge: #1: Bi/Tri/Quadri/Quin/Sex/Septi/Octo/Nona/Centennial – due 14 Jan. Sew something from __13, whether it be 1913, 1613, or 13BC
Fabric: cotton velvet outer, silk taffeta lining, stiffened felt interfacing for the ha
Pattern: hat: Lynn McMasters' Late Edwardian Early Teens small hat and toqu C. 1909-1916 pattern, purse drafted by myself based on a purse in the Met's collection.
Year: 1913
Notions: thread 18 gauge wire in the hat interfacing, glass & metal beads on the purse (added post-photo)
How historically accurate is it? Apart from using the stiffened felt interfacing rather than buckram I consider the hat as accurate as possible, the purse I consider a reasonable blend of documented processes, materials, and patterning, and is as closely copied from the original as I could, given that the original was entirely beaded all over, and I chose to use velvet and beaded tassels for trim instead.
Hours to complete: 8-10 hours total for both
First worn: I had planned to wear this on the 26th, but the event was postponed
Total cost: The velvet, taffeta, and glass beads were stash, the rest was about $15

The Challenge: #2: UFO - due Jan 28. Let’s get something off our UFO pile! Use this opportunity to finish off something that’s never quite gotten done, or stalled halfway through.
Fabric: silk dupioni, blue and silver for the first version, rust/copper for the second, finished version.
Pattern: self-drafted from a reticule originally posted on antique-textiles.net, though the page has been taken down since.
Year: 1790-1800
Notions: thread, fusible interfacing, ribbon, gold cord, self-covered botton
How historically accurate is it? I used a fusible interfacing to stiffen the outer silk petals, and it's partially machine sewn. I made the outer petals the way I assume the original had been, based on the photos, and the inner bag is self-lined and constructed as a long tube with the top fold forming the casing for the ribbon, and the bottom edges where turned in and cartridge pleated for shape the bottom.
Hours to complete: the longest part was hand-stitching the gold cord down, so probably 10 hours or so.
First worn: this coming Saturday, hopefully.
Total cost: all stash.
miss_philomena: (1875 train)
but I finished my gown in time for the ball at Rockwood this past Saturday!
miss_philomena: (grey purple plaid)
Okay, a quick recap of the year, since there was actual sewing! I'll admit right here and now that most of the pictures are nabbed from others, and if I remember who took it I've credited. But anyway!

my year of sewing )

And that is 2012 for me!
miss_philomena: (Default)
#0 (the bonus challenge): Starting Simple
Finish a project, make a very simple garment, or something you have made before.

I dithered around for a while trying to decide what to make, when I remembered this! I started it back in May, and it then languished half-finished since then. The base is a brass-colored metal purse frame, with butter colored silk taffeta for the outer shell and frame binding, and cherry red silk dupioni for the lining. It's got a taffeta strap, and an extra strip frayed for a self-fringe for the bow. The long seam of the strap and the side seams of the bag are machine sewn, otherwise everything else is done by hand. I'll be using this purse in a couple weeks at a Victorian Ball!

IMG_4889 IMG_8240 IMG_4697

progress pictures )


Jun. 20th, 2012 08:49 pm
miss_philomena: (Default)
Finally posted my Dress U pics! It's a combination of my own and ones stolen from others.

I don't have pictures of Friday night and Saturday day for myself, but I did get the rest, so here's the quick list of what I wore:

Saturday Night Titanic Dinner )

Sunday Day: Let Them Eat Crepes & Mad Tea Party )

Sunday Evening: Tiaras and Jampagne )

And that's Dress U for me!


May. 31st, 2012 06:59 pm
miss_philomena: (Default)
Titanic dinner gown is done! \o/
Green stripy natural form gown is done! \o/
Everything else I'll be wearing has been pulled out and washed as necessarily! \o/
Costume jewelry has been located and collected! \o/
Tiara has been fixed up! \o/
Hair pieces have been stuffed into a giant bag! \o/
Accessories have (mostly) been collected! \o/

I need to:
-finish the kits for my class
-fix my lace fan (maybe)
-get all my shoes together

I'm going to do the first two tonight, and then pack everything tomorrow morning before I head out.
miss_philomena: (Default)
I'm really happy with how my Titanic dinner gown is coming along. It looks awesome already, so I've got high hopes for getting pretty close to done tomorrow. \o/

When I first started planning this outfit I'd thought about doing a bandeau for my hair, but then I remembered something I've been in love with for ages. In the Priscilla Bead Work Book, scanned and posted by the Antique Pattern Library there's a Juliet cap made with pearls of various sizes. I didn't have pearls, but I had a ton of seed beads in a lovely bronze color, and with the addition of some faceted beads of varying sizes, I made a Juliet cap for myself.

a couple more pictures )
miss_philomena: (pierrot fan)
I was just feeling a bit under the weather for a few days, and despite only taking two classes this semester, they're already running me ragged.

Anyway, the first and most important thing: Poe pictures! Anyone who wants to is welcome to snag stuff. I can also supply high-res full size (3008x2000 pixels) for anyone that wants them.

I was also very productive yesterday and basically finished my capote. I sewed the straw brim over a month ago, and I finally dug out the silk for the crown. The lace is only pinned on, but I'm still deciding if that's how I want to do it. The first two are obviously pre-assembly, and the second two are how it currently looks.

The green is a bit brighter than the striped silk I'm using for the polonaise, but I'm choosing to ignore that fact. I also had originally planned to use silver trim for the outfit, but I pulled out a burnished gold and green trim that looks amazing with the stripe, so it's not quite a Slytherin polonaise now. Strange as it sounds, the gold is a little more subtle than the silver, and I like the little bit of warmth it pulls in.

I tore the panels for the skirt and overskirt the other day, and as soon as I unearth my pinking shears I'll start cutting the ruffles and working on them as well. With the stripe on the cross-grain planning it out takes a bit more fabric, so I ended up picking up the rest of the what the store had, bringing me up to 14.5 yards total, half of which is going to the ruffles. Because the ruffle on the skirt is so deep, I can only cut three out of the width, so the underskirt will need 3 yards just for the ruffles. I can cut five ruffles for the overskirt out of the width, so that'll take less fabric, luckily. And the neckline only needs a 1" ruffle, so that will just get pieced out of what's left over after I cut the bodice. I'll probably start the actual sewing next week.

miss_philomena: (la belle sleeve)
Just a couple of quick pictures from yesterday morning before heading over to the Old Barracks. I'll do more, nicer pictures at some point in the semi-near future, once I fix a couple of things that didn't work well as is.

Anyway, pictures!

And one more )

miss_philomena: (la belle chocolatiere)
So I got lazy about posting for the last couple of days. But!! Apart from a hem (which I'm going to do right now), I am finished with my outfit for tomorrow. Yay!

I will post a full recap and pictures either tomorrow night or Sunday, but I need to be up and moving in about six hours, so I'm signing off for the night.
miss_philomena: (la belle sleeve)
No pictures today, because I'm lazy.

I finished the rest of the boning channels in the stays, and have about half the bones in. My metal sheers are old and getting dull, so I had to stop cutting the steal boning. I'll finish tomorrow.

I have all three skirts pieced, and the waist pleats are pinned and waiting to be sewn. I decided to use dark green wool for the middle skirt, and I plan to use the leftover wool for my mitts. I dyed some silk twill a light olive green, which I'll line the mitts with. I also want to make a calash with the silk twill, but it might be too light.

I also drafted a pattern for a round ear cap, and I'll probably make that tomorrow, along with a new chemise. I pulled out my old one, tried it on, and couldn't breath. Of course, I've had it since I was 13, and back then I was much smaller in the chest area.

I'm feeling good about this. Thursday will be entirely devoted to the jacket, and Friday will be for odds and ends.
miss_philomena: (la belle chocolatiere)

I did a fair amount of work on the stays today. I decided to go with my orange linen for the fashion fabric, with red stitching and binding. I've stay stitched where I'll slash for the tabs, but I don't plan to cut them apart until I do the binding.

I couldn't find my metal sheers anywhere, so the last few boning channels have to wait. I need to insert the diagonal bones in the front before I close them in with the horizontal channels at the top.

As you can see, I put in metal grommets for lacing. I tried to do an eyelet completely by hand, but with the heavy cotton I'm using for interlining, I couldn't get an awl through. I'm sewing over them though. to look pretty and hide the fact that they aren't all the same color.

Tomorrow I plan to do the boning and finish the channels, and at least stay stitch the edge of the stays. I also plan to get the skirts done, but they shouldn't take long anyway. Wednesday day I'll start the jacket muslin, and I'll take the stays with me when we visit family in the evening to do the binding and the eyelets.

miss_philomena: (la belle sleeve)

Upon further thought I've decided I do want to try and reproduce the exact jacket in La Belle Chocolatiere. The front of the jacket is mostly obscured, but there's enough visible to hint at the details. There's a narrow collar in a somewhat odd possibly inverted scallop shape, and I think the jacket might be open in the front, with a blue stomacher to match the petticoat. I'm not sure what exactly the little bit of lighter orangey-yellow visible between the jacket and the shawl is. It seems like the wrong color for lace, but I don't think it's her stays peeking out either.

In terms of actual productivity today, I did up a muslin for half-boned stays, and then redrafted the pattern with a few changes. Tomorrow I'll cut them out and hopefully get at least the piecing and boning channels sewn. I know I have enough steel boning to do them up, I'll just have to dig it out. I'd like to get them fully done tomorrow, but hand done eyelets are definitely not high on my list of favorite activities. I have both yellow and orange creamsicle linen that I might use for these, or I might go in a completely different direction and use dark purple linen instead. I'll decide that tomorrow though.

miss_philomena: (catherine hand)
The Idea The Fabric The Base Pattern
La Belle Chocolatiere by Jean-Etienne Liotard burnt orange wool & blue/grey linen  1760-70 Jacket from Patterns of Fashion 1 by Janet Arnold

I've volunteered to help out at the Battle of Trenton reenactment next Saturday. And because I'm insane, I plan to make myself a full outfit rather than borrow one. I've decided on a jacket and skirt rather than a dress, for several reasons. For one, I don't have enough of any one color wool to make a full dress from. For another, a jacket will be easier to fit (and look better) if I don't get my stays done in time. And finally, and this is mainly a vanity thing, I don't want to be in a dress like most other women will be. I want to be a period correct non-conformist.

I should be able to knock off the petticoats in one sitting, really. I'm planning on three. An aquamarine flannel will be the innermost one, followed by wool of yet undetermined color, then topped with the blue linen. I'll have to run the linen through the wash a few times tomorrow; it's still pretty stiff.

I'll also scale up the jacket pattern and start working on that tomorrow as well. I'm not sure if I'll include the cuffs yet, that'll depend on if I have enough of the wool. I've only got about a yard and a quarter, but I'm not worried. Piecing is such a period practice, after all.

I think I have a round ear cap somewhere, but I might just make a new one, along with a stuffer shawl and mitts. I have one of the wide-brimmed felt hats from Williamsburg, but I'm not sure how to trim it, or if it's even appropriate for winter. That's at the end of the list though.

And over all of this, because it'll probably still be in the mid to upper 20s next weekend, I have a massive and heavy cape, made of dark blue wool and lined with light grey linen. I'll have to stop being lazy and finally sew a clasp on to it.

So, six days and counting.

PS- I didn't go into this intending to copy the color scheme of the painting. I spread all of my wool and linen out, picked the two I liked best together, and ran with it. THEN I went and looked up the painting for the style, and realized I'd picked the same colors. XD


miss_philomena: (Default)

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