miss_philomena: (1875 train)
I'm so horribly behind with the sewing I need for Dress U. x_x I need to make something for the Titanic dinner, Let Them Eat Crepes, the Gibson girl pool party, and possibly something for the Mad Tea Party if I don't decide to go with my red striped bustle instead. I know what I'm doing for Gibson girl already (something like this), and I've got most of an idea for Titanic as well, but I've planned nothing at all yet for Crepes.

Anyway, Titanic gown link parking:

This is the biggest inspiration so far, I think.

Though this is a strong second place.

This as well

And finally this.

But basically, I've discovered I really like Callot Soeurs gowns a lot. I have four or five other ones of theirs bookmarked as well for this. Also, I want to make a purse like this one, which is also theirs, if I can find a lace that would work.

I think that's all for now....
miss_philomena: (pierrot side)
Is it wrong to plan an outfit around a certain type of hat? More specifically, this type of hat?



It's big and over the top and at the same time simple. I love it. I might even attempt to do it in straw if I have enough narrow braid to do it.

I'll probably go for either a zone front like Hilary Swank is wearing with it, or perhaps some type of round gown. I'm still deciding. It depends on what the stash says to me.
miss_philomena: (Default)
Everyone else is talking about Victorian fancy dress costumes, and I can't help it. I need to jump in, even though I won't be at Costume College. I'm liking this one the most. A Victorian take on Italian Renn is what it looks like to me. Kind of like a Victorian Juliet. I'll have to poke through the stash as I sort out what will go into storage and see what jumps out at me color-wise. I'm thinking maybe ivory? With a nice deep burgundy for the sleeve puffs and underskirt.

And a nice coppery-brown leather for the belt/pouch, which I just happen to have already...



Miss Scott in costume, Montreal, QC, 1881
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream fan)
The Met's website is such an amazing, evil thing, isn't it? xD There are so many things on my someday list from their collection, and I just want to toss up a list so I can remember for myself.

1. Robe à la Polonaise ca. 1787 I love love love the golden yellow damask trimmed with blue taffeta combination. And the shawl collar and ruched oversleeve. I just love the whole thing, though I think when I do make this style I'll make it a bit more fitted than this.

2. Visiting Dress, 1867 It's striped. It's transitional early bustle. It's floofy and over the top. Do I really need to say anything else? :3

3. Dress, 1865-1870 I really like the shape and draping of this skirt. (The Met gave this a range of 1865-70, but I'd definitely put it closer to the end of that than the beginning, given the style of the skirt.)

4. Afternoon Dress, 1870-1875 This is definitely a dress where the fabric makes the gown. But I just love that bright blue in the brocade that's then repeated in the trim.

5. Dress, 1872 I love how light and airy and soft this looks. I really want to make a summer ensemble, with either a printed gauze like this, or just a plain organza.

6. Afternoon Ensemble, 1880-1885 This blue is such a beautiful, rich color, and the brocade, of course, is the perfect highlight with it. And I love all the mix and match pieces and the various ways it can be worn.

7. Dress, 1885-1888 I know [livejournal.com profile] koshka_the_cat is planning on making this, but I've been drooling over this down for a couple months now. The stripes! Who could say no to that?

8. Afternoon Dress, 1912 I want to do the DPP for Your Wardrobe Unlock'd, and while my first thought went to an evening gown, this one with it's deceptively simple lines (and stripes!) is lovely. I think the only thing I'd really change is the neckline. I really, really can't stand high collars, or really anything tight around the neck.

So, I've actually cut down the list from what I'd originally planned, believe it or not. But this seems like a good starting off point. xD

Oh and one last thing! I've made myself a twitter account, if anyone has one and would be interested in following it, though I don't know how often I'll use it.
miss_philomena: (bib front)
So the past couple of weeks I've been feeling costuming burn-out, and for no apparent reason. But that's a bad thing when Costume Con is only a month away. So I figured if I can just knock out something quick and easy I can get myself back on track.

And hey, I think it's working! :3

I'd picked up this kind of waffle-textured-type silk gauze several years ago with the intention of making something like the white organza gowns you see in the 1870s. But after getting it home it then sat in a drawer forever after I realized it was a bit too drapey to use for the crisp style needed for the bustle style. Plus it didn't really want to hold a crease either, probably because it is a textured weave.

But Sunday I had the thought that it'd make a perfect early Regency style dress and got straight to it. XD Sunday I pieced together three panels for the skirt and did a muslin mockup for the bodice, which I also used as the lining. Yesterday I cut out the silk for the bodice and got that pieced together and mounted the skirt on as well. I'm doing a bib-front style, almost exactly like the 1798-1805 gown in Patterns of Fashion 1. I'm a bit eh about the bib for that dress though, with all the tucks going in the same direction, so my first thought was to do more of a chevron style. But when I was flipping through the Kyoto Costume Institute's Fashion for extra inspiration, this dress here caught my eye. I like the slight scoop to the neckline, as well as the gathering under the bust.

I haven't actually done the bib yet, but I realized last night when I was, I'll admit being lazy, fitting the gown over just a bra and tank top, that I really need some type of stays for this. I'm a busty girl, so I need something with support, but I don't particularly like the long typical regency style stays, so I'm going with a pair of short transitional stays, the kind with a gathered cup rather than inset gores. I drafted up a pattern for the back of the stays earlier, and I'll just start with a couple of rectangles for the front to figure out where the cups need to go. For a little bit of extra support I rescued the underwires from one of my bras that's bound for the trash to add to the stays. But actually making the stays is tomorrow's project.

And I noticed there is talk of wearing costume for the KCI tea on the 10th? Looks like I'll be all set. XD
miss_philomena: (striped cranach)
Look at that, I really am back! I'm going to a Yule event on the 11th, and while I do already have a lovely pink linen gown made, I want something fancier for this. While the first plan was the red gown on the left here, I couldn't find enough of the right color taffeta, but I did find a lovely pink silk instead. So hey, I decided why not have a bit of fun and make the completely out there dress in this portrait.



I have a yard of green cotton velvet, which should be enough for all the trimming on the bodice, but I don't think I'll have enough for skirt guards unless they're narrow. And I don't know if I have enough time to run down to Philly and pick more up before the event either.

Not for a bit of technical talk. I've been poking around and looking at a lot of other costumers and their versions of this style of gown. And on most of them I've noticed gapping, either below the brustfleck/plastron, where the lacing doesn't start high enough or tight enough, or above there, where there is perhaps extra fabric at the armhole. I did notice in this painting, with detail that there's the almost sheer hemd, with what could be a second, opaque helm, possibly much shorter, since it's only visible under the bodice, so I'm going to play with that idea. We'll see how exactly things turn out once I get into fitting and sewing and all that.

Now to get back to patterning....

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