miss_philomena: (Default)
As mentioned in my last post, ages ago now, I know, I made myself a new and (what I thought was) delightfully wide cage crinoline. After wandering into the TV message board, I discovered someone making 180" circumference hoops, and someone else making 210" (!!!) circ. hoops. Makes my 134" hoop seem much more respectable.

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Two of the hoops are 1/2" hooping steel from tutu dot com, the other six hoops are 1/4" spring steel from a cheap ebay bridal hoop. I'd initially planned to do it all with the 1/4" steel, but it didn't feel stable enough, so I added the two sturdier hoops, the third down, and the top one in the bag. I also put my smaller 18th century rump under the back, just to make sure it doesn't collapse or tip forward under the weight of heavier skirts, but the rump isn't quite the right shape. I'll have to make one that's a little bit fuller higher up. It's a round hoop, but one with just a little bit of back thrust, and I don't want to lose that.

My county's 4-H fair was the lat weekend in July, so this year I opted to enter my day gown from New Castle. I was marked down because apparently silk isn't a durable material. I also overheard the judge commenting after judging was finished that it wasn't an appropriate dress for a farmer's wife. I have no idea where she got the idea that it was made for that, because there was no mention of farms or wives on my entry form. All I can guess is that she assumed that's what it was meant for because the fair takes place at an historic farm. But hey, I still got best in division!

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I also had someone else (not the judge) not really believe me when I said yes, even back then day dresses could be and were made of silk, no it's not an evening dress. But it was surprising the number of people that were shocked that not only did I make the dress myself (I couldn't enter it for judging otherwise, sillies!), but that I made it to wear it, and had worn it, which is why there's a small stain on one of the sleeves from a fantastic pub lunch. Ehh, whatever. Maybe next year I'll enter one of my Gettysburg dresses.
miss_philomena: (Default)
I can never work on just one project at a time. It's a curse. But I did get a new hoop, TV142 1856 walking cage crinoline, mostly assembled. I made some changes to it, mainly making the hoop wider at the bottom. TV's patterns are set up that the bottom of the hoop is the same for every size, and only the top three hoop circumferences change for differing sizes. So I took put my calculator and mathed to keep that same proportionate increases from the medium size to the extra large size. It gave me a hoop about 130" at the hem instead of 110'. Just chilling in my living room it looks comically big, but I don't care! Once I finish sewing it, because right now the hoops are just pinned to the vertical tapes, I'll take some pictures. I'll be able to use it for everything but my fancy dress, because the striped skirt silk would only just fit over it, as in only a couple inches extra, and I don't want it tight over the hoop.

I've also been doing a lot of beaded knitting and crochet lately. I joined a knit-along for a pence jug purse through the Living History Knits and Crochet Facebook group, and we're currently in week two of five. This is such a small project and it knits up quickly, leaving me feeling impatient for more directions! Of course if I were just doing this on my own with no timing, it would linger, I'm sure.

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miss_philomena: (Default)
 Had a sewing day yesterday at [personal profile] robinsnest 's lovely home, and traced off patterns for Gettysburg! I traced off and sized up Robin's paletot pattern so I am ready to go on that. It's a fairly simple pattern too, only fronts, backs, and sleeves, so I anticipate it going together fairly quickly.

I also traced of TV's 1860s dress bodice pattern. I plan to use the same pattern as the base for both of my day dresses. For the figured silk check I plan to do an asymmetrical/faux-double breasted bodice, and will leave the the points at the waist alone. For the other day dress I haven't finalized what it'll look like, but I'll probably alter it into a single point at the front, and possibly more of a peplum look with a fuller back, rather than just the original points. We'll see.

TV's massively giant sleeves also strike again in this pattern. The instructions on the sleeve heads say to gather them in to fit the sleeve, which I definitely did not want for this. I want a smooth fitted sleeve head. The TV instructions for measuring what size sleeve I need would've had me cutting the largest size, which would've given me a massively gigantic sleeve. Instead I measured the armhole of the bodice and went with the sleeve size which would give me only about an inch and a half to ease in, which is much more reasonable, and also happened to be the smallest size for the sleeve pattern pieces.

I've got the Past Patterns 1863 evening bodice for my ball gowns, and I split all the pieces apart, but I ran out of time yesterday to trace them. My goal for the week is to trace it off, and make a mock up of both the day and evening bodice, and then I can start altering them. I'm going to be down in D. C. next week, so when I get back I plan to start sewing. My July goal is to get the figured silk day dress done, and the paletot, and at least start on the icicle fancy dress. I bought a ton of clearanced tiny rhinestone buttons from Joanns that I plan to add into the organza poofs I'll trim the icicle dress with, to give it extra sparkle.
miss_philomena: (Default)
First, the Mid-Atlantic Air Museum's WWII weekend!

The usual suspects went, and like usual I will lazily link to their posts (Amanda, Alice, and will add Robin and Jess if they write something eventually). I actually arrived at the agreed upon time, everyone else rolled up an hour later. This is a huge and popular event, so parking was quite a distance away, and a school bur ride to get to the entrance!

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I was feeling quite spiffy if I do say so myself. And immensely glad I decided on my way out the door to bring my sweater just in case, because it turned out to be chilly! I don't think it got over 68F. Not usual for early June around here, jsyk. For my hair I did Victory Rolls in the front, perhaps a little smaller than they could've been, but I didn't have a lot of space to work in with my hat. The back I just rolled up.

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I'm honestly a bit meh about this dress. It was much cuter in my head than in actually sewing. I had more fun with accessories instead. I picked up my hat on eBay, and the sweater is a modern one, but I spruced it up with some antique button pins and an adorable vintage (probably 50s) chain with red, white, and blue rhinestones.

The event was definitely fun, and I'd love someday to actually drive out my 1936 coupe, but when it's an hour and a half each way, and I'd need to have the car on site for setup Thursday, and not be able to get it home until Sunday, that'd require being there the whole weekend. So maybe some year further down, but 99.9% not for next year. It's been sitting for a while and needs some work anyway. But how much fun would it be, to be able to drive around with people in costume in the rumble seat in the back?

There was a flea market there, and I bought a very cute pair of mid-length yellow cotton gloves. No idea what I'll wear them with, but they were too cute to pass on, and actually fit! And completely randomly, I also bought a Victorian black crepe mourning veil. It probably won't go to Gettyburg this year, because I don't have a mourning outfit planned, nor do I have fabric for it, so it'll have to wait.

My full flickr album is here.

On a different note, this week has been a headwear week!

Headwear Headwear Headwear
While I absolutely adore my gigantic and insane silk gauze cap, it's a bit impractical for regular wear. So Monday evening I cut and started a new cap using the Kannik's Korner 1740-1820 cap pattern, and finished it Tuesday afternoon. The pattern has been in my stash for ages, along with a yard of silk organza I purchased around the same time, to make said cap. I kept it fairly simple, with a single pleated split ruffle. My construction method is not the standard hem every piece separately and then whip it all together. Instead I used the method I was taught by Janae Whitacre of Williamsburg's Margaret Hunter Millinery Shop. This method is: turn down a small seam allowance, here a hair under 1/4", on the band piece. Lay it over the pleated ruffle, then baste the pieces together, done here in black. Then cover the raw edges with a 1/4" silk ribbon, stitching through all layers on both edges of the ribbon. Repeat for the caul. This creates a single layer cap with no raw edges, and it actually gets finished in a timely manner. I constructed my giant ruffle beast cap the same way.

Headwear Headwear Headwear Headwear
My other bit of headwear this week is a spoon bonnet! It's mostly finished, and was intended to wear tomorrow for a Victorian Picnic here in Philly, but we've switched from hoops to natural form so it'll have to wait for it's first outing. I'm going to put the crown lining in after lunch, as well as the ties and curtain. But I'm going to hold off on trimming it for now, and wait until I actually need it. [personal profile] mandie_rw made the buckram frame for me, and mulled it as well, so all I had to do was cover and decorate it. I used a shot blue and pink semi-slubby dupioni for the outside, and the same pink taffeta from my gown for the big-ass hat tea earlier this year. The ties are the pink silk as well, and I'll probably put white feathers and flowers of some color on the outside eventually.
miss_philomena: (Default)
Well I got my pet en l'air all finished and had a lovely time wearing it yesterday! Both [personal profile] robinsnest and [personal profile] mandie_rw did their write ups here and here, so I won't rehash everything. The original plan had been to have a Pre-Raphaelite picnic out at Valley Forge, but that fell through. And with the on and off rain throughout the day it's just as well we didn't!

I'm very happy with my pet, and only have a couple small tweaks to make. The stomacher needs to be shortened, because it's too long for my taste, and I need to shorten the shoulder straps. But those are both fairly easy to do!

I wore the pet with my faux taffeta petticoat, silk gauze cap, silk gauze bonnet, and silk pinball, which is actually made with scraps from two of my New Castle plaids. It was on the chillier side, so I also pulled out my old linen mitts, which are brown linen lined with purple silk noil, and a square of cotton lawn that will be hemmed at some point and become a legit kerchief. Shoes are AD Dunmores, and some day I'll decide what color I want to dye them.

Silk Sunday in Haddonfield Silk Sunday in Haddonfield

The entirety of my pictures are here!


miss_philomena: (Default)
I've already written this up elsewhere, so I'm just copying it over to here so I can keep track of my plans.

Remembrance Day is in November, and unlike the usual suspects, I haven't gone to this before, so I have no wardrobe to pull from. That means I need to make almost everything!

So I'm writing up this post to a) keep track of what I'm doing, and b) make sure I don't weasel out of doing anything. As of right now I've got underwear for Gettysburg, and that's it. I have corset, chemise, pantaloons, hoops, shoes, and one spoon bonnet. I'm gonna put the list of what I need behind a cut. All the sewing!

Read more... )
miss_philomena: (Default)
Only six months after the event!

New Castle was very enjoyable, and called for everything new. There was a (very close quarters) ball Friday night, and Saturday was spent strolling around town and visiting some of the houses, and generally looking decorative. I'm going to be lazy and link to other's posts for a rundown of the event itself, again, six months ago. Amanda, Robin, and Alice.

This is long so I'm gonna put all the pictures and talk behind a cut!  )And there you have it!

woohoo!

May. 3rd, 2017 10:19 am
miss_philomena: (Default)
Okay, so I'm super far behind, but now that I've successfully imported all of my lj posts here I'm gonna start working on the list.

Things I Need to Write Up:
New Castle, Dec '16
Regency Tea, Jan '17
Victorian Skating, Feb '17
Suffragette, Feb '17
Big Ass Hat, April '17

I am, of course, going to skip over all of that and jump to my current project, which needs to be finished for Sunday.

Pink and Blue Pet en L'air

Back in November at Burnley and Trowbridge's hat making workshop I picked up two and a bit yards of this lovely pink and blue crossbarred silk with vague plans to make some sort of jacket with it eventually. Well, 3/4ths of the usual suspects are going to a tea demonstration this Sunday, after having made most of a dress in a day for [personal profile] robinsnest there this past Saturday. Apparently it's to be silk day, and I decided I wanted something new, so into the stash I went!

I opted for a pet en l'air, as they're fun and light and a fairly quick make, though I've had to redo a few things when I decided I wasn't happy with how it looked. But for having started Sunday evening and only putting in 3-4 not very dedicated sewing hours in the last two days, it's close to done. Today's plan is to finish trimming the sleeves, and then set them along the bottom so I only need to put my stays on once to finalize the shoulder straps and set the top of the sleeve. Then it's only the shoulder pieces to cover, and a hem! (And a good pressing)

Pink and Blue Pet en L'air Pink and Blue Pet en L'air Pink and Blue Pet en L'air
Back pleats pinned into place // back panel completely attached to lining // front pleats pinned into place

For the weekend I plan to wear it over my plain white taffeta petticoat and my baby pocket hoops, made for my 1740s mantua a few years back. I'm not looking for a super hippy shape in this, just a little extra oomph. There might be pictures over the next couple days, if not, finished pictures after Sunday!
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
Partially anyway. I started this dress back in late May for a picnic that got rained out, so it went on the UFO pile. A small group of us are hitting up a tea house this weekend, and I don't feel like wearing my red cotton gown. So I decided, rather than just fix/recut the left sleeve on my windowpane green silk gown, which was my first idea, that I'd pull this out and finish it.

IMG_2345

The bodice was already mostly assembled, I just needed to sew the side seams and sew up and set the sleeves. Right now it's currently in the War & Peace asymmetrical style, as you can see. The sleeves are three parts- the short puffed sleeve, a fitted short lining, and a long fitted sleeve that's just basted in.

I pinned the front with about a 4" overlap, but I'm thinking I'm either going to have it just meet in the front, or only a very small 1" overlap, and fill it in with either a chemisette or fichu. Looking at the picture I feel like the high overlap looks too closed off. I want it more like this gown, I think. I also plan to do a dogleg closure like that gown as well, and have a round skirt. I don't have enough fabric to put three panels in the skirt like usual, so what I plan to do instead is gore the front so I can get a fuller hem, and use a full panel for the back.

Today's plan is to set the second set of sleeves, sew the waistband to the bodice, and cut and sew the skirt pieces. Tomorrow will be attaching the skirt and putting in closures. But right now it's time for an early lunch!
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
Well, 2016 started with a real low, but I did a fair amount of sewing over the course of it anyway. I'm just going to do a quick picture run-by.

the run down )

Belvidere!

Sep. 12th, 2016 10:28 pm
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
14305289_10101143958270389_7769884806491891898_o
picture from [livejournal.com profile] sewloud

I made a new outfit for Belvidere this past Saturday. And I mean everything. The only thing that wasn't new was my hat. Chemise, pantaloons and corset were all new. I may or may not post pictures of those some day.

Wanting a natural form summer gown, I bought 30 yards of hand block printed cotton voile on Etsy. It was the best price, being $25 for five yards, $50 for ten yards, or $70 for 30 yards. I put almost half of it into this outfit anyway, so it's just as well I bought that much!

I used one of Butterick's costume patterns for the underskirt, adding a drawstring and a tie to get the natural form shape, Truly Victorian's 362 Wash overskirt, and 462 Tail bodice. Yes, those are both technically late bustle patterns, but the overskirt pattern notes mention it being in an 1882 advertisement as well, without a bustle underneath.

I really love the outfit, I just need to do a little more work on my corset. I need to put more boning in to better support the girls, but everything I have on hand is too long at the moment. I'll get to it at some point.
miss_philomena: (Default)
So I've been marathoning Parks and Rec and I'm almost done and OMG Donna's wedding dress was actually my original first choice! I laughed when I saw it. It's a gorgeous dress, but after trying it on I decided it was fluffier than I wanted for my wedding.
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
For which I actually had an Anglaise! Or Italian/quarter back gown. I'm not sure if it's considered an Anglaise if it doesn't have the en fourreau pleats? I have seen some 1780s plates referring to this style as an Italian gown, and I've seen other costumers call it a quarter back gown. Anyway.

I pretty much did a straight copy of a gown I found on Pinterest. Board with pictures here! I just loved the chevron back and the cuff on it. The only thing I didn't do was the pleated trim, because I just didn't have the fabric for it. I only had five yards total, and I wanted the skirt as full as possible. The center back bodice panels are pieced to keep the bodice and sleeves made out of only one yard of fabric so that the rest could go to the skirt.

The fabric is a satin striped silk, the same one [livejournal.com profile] mandie_rw used in her jacket, though in a different colorway. I bought it on eBay years ago and it's lingered in the stash for quite some time. I'd actually initially planned to make this gown, albeit as a round gown, for the Battle of Trenton Ball back in December, but schoolwork and things with Mom prevented that. But I got it whipped up last week, along with two new petticoats, and wearable for the luncheon Sunday!

I failed to take pictures myself, so these are shamelessly stolen from Amanda.

050_zps9y5emnpe 051_zpsbhjajwln 053_zps9c55es7m

It was drizzling lightly so I wore the gown retroussée dans les poches, or pulled through the pocket slits. All I did was stick my hands through the pockets, gather up a bunch of the skirt in my hands, and pull it up and through. Not evenly, either, as I can see the center back seam leaning right in the pictures, haha. With it I have a sheer striped cotton petticoat on, as well as a plain white muslin petticoat, both of which I whipped up Friday, and my quilted petticoat on the bottom. I accessorized with my carnation pinball, tiny green silk twill reticule, round cap with a red silk ribbon, and a bonnet I made years and years ago that was meant to go with a back and green striped polonaise gown I still haven't made. (Someday...) The brim is paper straw made using Lynn McMasters' Early 19 Century Seaside Bonnet, and the crown is just a circle of green dupioni that was gathered, bound, and whipped onto the brim. (The mitts are cheater mitts- I couldn't find my brown linen ones so I grabbed these. They're actually a greyish purple knit, a Christmas present from my almost-aunt, and completely modern, but the perfect shape, so I grabbed them to keep my arms warm while outside.)

One thing I feel I should point out: the giant V stripe on the back, that goes from shoulder to waist to shoulder? That was 100% accidental. I only made sure the center back seam stripes lined up properly, and didn't even bother to compare the stripes on the side back pieces to the center back. I didn't even notice it until I looked at the pictures after Amanda posted them!

non-costume related life whining )

Oops

Feb. 21st, 2016 07:28 pm
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
Did I just buy fabric to make an 1830s summer dress? I think I did.



The plan.
miss_philomena: (Default)
On January 20th, 2011 I lost my dad to cancer.

Today, January 20th, 2016, I lost my mom to cancer as well.
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
It's after midnight as I get ready to post this, so I am now exactly 275 days away from my wedding. Insanity!

And my best friend is getting married in something like 55 days. I have no idea what I'm going to wear to hear wedding yet either. It's a cinderella's ball type theme, so I told her I'd just wear one of my Victorian ball gowns, but she was less than enthused by that idea. I have a really nice evening gown, and while it fits in the body, it's too tight now in the bust. And the boobs are the one place I haven't lost weight from as my weight has gone down. I'm trying to decide if I want to see if I can find myself a dress for under $150 or so, or just make myself something.

But that's not the point of this post! This is my 2015 in review. It was crappy in some ways, and good in others. The best of course being that my mom is still here, followed very closely by Joe proposing.

Here's what I made )

I'm also starting to plot out what I want to sew next year.

I've already decided to spend January and February making new undies for all periods. I need three chemises: 18th century, regency, and Victorian. I need pantaloons. I need to finally sew the regency stays I cut out a year ago. I need to do a little repair work on my 1780s stays, mainly replacing a couple of the broken cane bones. If possible, I want to make a new pair of fully boned stays appropriate for Pennsbury Manor. I need to decide if I want to just take in my Victorian corset, or make a new one.

I want to do pre-raphaelite/faux medieval for my birthday, which is April. I've got the fitted gown, I just need something to go over it now. I'm told one of my spring semester professors expects a fully sewn piece every week though, so we'll see how much time/energy I have outside of schoolwork for personal sewing.

Beyond that I'm not entirely sure what will be happening. I've got linen to make a new Pennsbury mantua as well, but I probably won't need it until May or June. And those don't take a ton of time to make. It'll probably come on the train with me where I can sit and hand sew for a good 80 minutes each way.

I also want to flesh out my late 18th century wardrobe. I've been doing that more than Victorian lately, and I want to keep at it while it holds my interest.

I'm hoping to move sometime in the summer, i.e. between semesters, so I'm not sure how much time I'll have for sewing in general. 2016 is going to be a very busy year in a lot of different ways.
miss_philomena: (Default)
Apart from buttons and hooks & eyes the lemon yellow dress is done! Well, it won't have any trim tomorrow, but I'm not sure I want to put a lot/any on. I feel like the fabric speaks for itself. I might only run a line of trim around the edge of the jacket.


Pictures  )
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
What better to use for an 1860s dress than very bright lemon yellow faile? It's a cotton/rayon blend, and a little shiny, but I really don't care. I'll be visible for a mile. It'll be awesome and hilarious. I might even glow in the dark. I'm not sure yet. I've got a whole bunch of vintage navy petersham ribbon to trim it with, but I don't think that'll tone it down all that much. I'm frankenpatterning two Simplicity patterns for this bodice. I'm using the body of 3791 and the sleeves (and skirt) from 7212. I plan to make the bodice two separate layers instead of just a front overlap, and have a vest and removable jacket. I'm still trying to decide if I want the vest in a different fabric. I have ivory silk satin, but it looks too dull with the yellow, and I don't have enough white silk, unless I can find the piece that went missing. 3791 also has gigantic coat sleeves, so I'm going to use the sleeves from 7212 instead. I don't have a lot of fabric, and I'm hoping to cut an evening bodice eventually too. I'm using the 7212 skirt as well because it's straight panels rather than gores, which means less waste.

mini mom update )

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