miss_philomena: (Default)
First, the Mid-Atlantic Air Museum's WWII weekend!

The usual suspects went, and like usual I will lazily link to their posts (Amanda, Alice, and will add Robin and Jess if they write something eventually). I actually arrived at the agreed upon time, everyone else rolled up an hour later. This is a huge and popular event, so parking was quite a distance away, and a school bur ride to get to the entrance!

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I was feeling quite spiffy if I do say so myself. And immensely glad I decided on my way out the door to bring my sweater just in case, because it turned out to be chilly! I don't think it got over 68F. Not usual for early June around here, jsyk. For my hair I did Victory Rolls in the front, perhaps a little smaller than they could've been, but I didn't have a lot of space to work in with my hat. The back I just rolled up.

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I'm honestly a bit meh about this dress. It was much cuter in my head than in actually sewing. I had more fun with accessories instead. I picked up my hat on eBay, and the sweater is a modern one, but I spruced it up with some antique button pins and an adorable vintage (probably 50s) chain with red, white, and blue rhinestones.

The event was definitely fun, and I'd love someday to actually drive out my 1936 coupe, but when it's an hour and a half each way, and I'd need to have the car on site for setup Thursday, and not be able to get it home until Sunday, that'd require being there the whole weekend. So maybe some year further down, but 99.9% not for next year. It's been sitting for a while and needs some work anyway. But how much fun would it be, to be able to drive around with people in costume in the rumble seat in the back?

There was a flea market there, and I bought a very cute pair of mid-length yellow cotton gloves. No idea what I'll wear them with, but they were too cute to pass on, and actually fit! And completely randomly, I also bought a Victorian black crepe mourning veil. It probably won't go to Gettyburg this year, because I don't have a mourning outfit planned, nor do I have fabric for it, so it'll have to wait.

My full flickr album is here.

On a different note, this week has been a headwear week!

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While I absolutely adore my gigantic and insane silk gauze cap, it's a bit impractical for regular wear. So Monday evening I cut and started a new cap using the Kannik's Korner 1740-1820 cap pattern, and finished it Tuesday afternoon. The pattern has been in my stash for ages, along with a yard of silk organza I purchased around the same time, to make said cap. I kept it fairly simple, with a single pleated split ruffle. My construction method is not the standard hem every piece separately and then whip it all together. Instead I used the method I was taught by Janae Whitacre of Williamsburg's Margaret Hunter Millinery Shop. This method is: turn down a small seam allowance, here a hair under 1/4", on the band piece. Lay it over the pleated ruffle, then baste the pieces together, done here in black. Then cover the raw edges with a 1/4" silk ribbon, stitching through all layers on both edges of the ribbon. Repeat for the caul. This creates a single layer cap with no raw edges, and it actually gets finished in a timely manner. I constructed my giant ruffle beast cap the same way.

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My other bit of headwear this week is a spoon bonnet! It's mostly finished, and was intended to wear tomorrow for a Victorian Picnic here in Philly, but we've switched from hoops to natural form so it'll have to wait for it's first outing. I'm going to put the crown lining in after lunch, as well as the ties and curtain. But I'm going to hold off on trimming it for now, and wait until I actually need it. [personal profile] mandie_rw made the buckram frame for me, and mulled it as well, so all I had to do was cover and decorate it. I used a shot blue and pink semi-slubby dupioni for the outside, and the same pink taffeta from my gown for the big-ass hat tea earlier this year. The ties are the pink silk as well, and I'll probably put white feathers and flowers of some color on the outside eventually.
miss_philomena: (Default)
Well I got my pet en l'air all finished and had a lovely time wearing it yesterday! Both [personal profile] robinsnest and [personal profile] mandie_rw did their write ups here and here, so I won't rehash everything. The original plan had been to have a Pre-Raphaelite picnic out at Valley Forge, but that fell through. And with the on and off rain throughout the day it's just as well we didn't!

I'm very happy with my pet, and only have a couple small tweaks to make. The stomacher needs to be shortened, because it's too long for my taste, and I need to shorten the shoulder straps. But those are both fairly easy to do!

I wore the pet with my faux taffeta petticoat, silk gauze cap, silk gauze bonnet, and silk pinball, which is actually made with scraps from two of my New Castle plaids. It was on the chillier side, so I also pulled out my old linen mitts, which are brown linen lined with purple silk noil, and a square of cotton lawn that will be hemmed at some point and become a legit kerchief. Shoes are AD Dunmores, and some day I'll decide what color I want to dye them.

Silk Sunday in Haddonfield Silk Sunday in Haddonfield

The entirety of my pictures are here!


woohoo!

May. 3rd, 2017 10:19 am
miss_philomena: (Default)
Okay, so I'm super far behind, but now that I've successfully imported all of my lj posts here I'm gonna start working on the list.

Things I Need to Write Up:
New Castle, Dec '16
Regency Tea, Jan '17
Victorian Skating, Feb '17
Suffragette, Feb '17
Big Ass Hat, April '17

I am, of course, going to skip over all of that and jump to my current project, which needs to be finished for Sunday.

Pink and Blue Pet en L'air

Back in November at Burnley and Trowbridge's hat making workshop I picked up two and a bit yards of this lovely pink and blue crossbarred silk with vague plans to make some sort of jacket with it eventually. Well, 3/4ths of the usual suspects are going to a tea demonstration this Sunday, after having made most of a dress in a day for [personal profile] robinsnest there this past Saturday. Apparently it's to be silk day, and I decided I wanted something new, so into the stash I went!

I opted for a pet en l'air, as they're fun and light and a fairly quick make, though I've had to redo a few things when I decided I wasn't happy with how it looked. But for having started Sunday evening and only putting in 3-4 not very dedicated sewing hours in the last two days, it's close to done. Today's plan is to finish trimming the sleeves, and then set them along the bottom so I only need to put my stays on once to finalize the shoulder straps and set the top of the sleeve. Then it's only the shoulder pieces to cover, and a hem! (And a good pressing)

Pink and Blue Pet en L'air Pink and Blue Pet en L'air Pink and Blue Pet en L'air
Back pleats pinned into place // back panel completely attached to lining // front pleats pinned into place

For the weekend I plan to wear it over my plain white taffeta petticoat and my baby pocket hoops, made for my 1740s mantua a few years back. I'm not looking for a super hippy shape in this, just a little extra oomph. There might be pictures over the next couple days, if not, finished pictures after Sunday!
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
For which I actually had an Anglaise! Or Italian/quarter back gown. I'm not sure if it's considered an Anglaise if it doesn't have the en fourreau pleats? I have seen some 1780s plates referring to this style as an Italian gown, and I've seen other costumers call it a quarter back gown. Anyway.

I pretty much did a straight copy of a gown I found on Pinterest. Board with pictures here! I just loved the chevron back and the cuff on it. The only thing I didn't do was the pleated trim, because I just didn't have the fabric for it. I only had five yards total, and I wanted the skirt as full as possible. The center back bodice panels are pieced to keep the bodice and sleeves made out of only one yard of fabric so that the rest could go to the skirt.

The fabric is a satin striped silk, the same one [livejournal.com profile] mandie_rw used in her jacket, though in a different colorway. I bought it on eBay years ago and it's lingered in the stash for quite some time. I'd actually initially planned to make this gown, albeit as a round gown, for the Battle of Trenton Ball back in December, but schoolwork and things with Mom prevented that. But I got it whipped up last week, along with two new petticoats, and wearable for the luncheon Sunday!

I failed to take pictures myself, so these are shamelessly stolen from Amanda.

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It was drizzling lightly so I wore the gown retroussée dans les poches, or pulled through the pocket slits. All I did was stick my hands through the pockets, gather up a bunch of the skirt in my hands, and pull it up and through. Not evenly, either, as I can see the center back seam leaning right in the pictures, haha. With it I have a sheer striped cotton petticoat on, as well as a plain white muslin petticoat, both of which I whipped up Friday, and my quilted petticoat on the bottom. I accessorized with my carnation pinball, tiny green silk twill reticule, round cap with a red silk ribbon, and a bonnet I made years and years ago that was meant to go with a back and green striped polonaise gown I still haven't made. (Someday...) The brim is paper straw made using Lynn McMasters' Early 19 Century Seaside Bonnet, and the crown is just a circle of green dupioni that was gathered, bound, and whipped onto the brim. (The mitts are cheater mitts- I couldn't find my brown linen ones so I grabbed these. They're actually a greyish purple knit, a Christmas present from my almost-aunt, and completely modern, but the perfect shape, so I grabbed them to keep my arms warm while outside.)

One thing I feel I should point out: the giant V stripe on the back, that goes from shoulder to waist to shoulder? That was 100% accidental. I only made sure the center back seam stripes lined up properly, and didn't even bother to compare the stripes on the side back pieces to the center back. I didn't even notice it until I looked at the pictures after Amanda posted them!

non-costume related life whining )
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
It's after midnight as I get ready to post this, so I am now exactly 275 days away from my wedding. Insanity!

And my best friend is getting married in something like 55 days. I have no idea what I'm going to wear to hear wedding yet either. It's a cinderella's ball type theme, so I told her I'd just wear one of my Victorian ball gowns, but she was less than enthused by that idea. I have a really nice evening gown, and while it fits in the body, it's too tight now in the bust. And the boobs are the one place I haven't lost weight from as my weight has gone down. I'm trying to decide if I want to see if I can find myself a dress for under $150 or so, or just make myself something.

But that's not the point of this post! This is my 2015 in review. It was crappy in some ways, and good in others. The best of course being that my mom is still here, followed very closely by Joe proposing.

Here's what I made )

I'm also starting to plot out what I want to sew next year.

I've already decided to spend January and February making new undies for all periods. I need three chemises: 18th century, regency, and Victorian. I need pantaloons. I need to finally sew the regency stays I cut out a year ago. I need to do a little repair work on my 1780s stays, mainly replacing a couple of the broken cane bones. If possible, I want to make a new pair of fully boned stays appropriate for Pennsbury Manor. I need to decide if I want to just take in my Victorian corset, or make a new one.

I want to do pre-raphaelite/faux medieval for my birthday, which is April. I've got the fitted gown, I just need something to go over it now. I'm told one of my spring semester professors expects a fully sewn piece every week though, so we'll see how much time/energy I have outside of schoolwork for personal sewing.

Beyond that I'm not entirely sure what will be happening. I've got linen to make a new Pennsbury mantua as well, but I probably won't need it until May or June. And those don't take a ton of time to make. It'll probably come on the train with me where I can sit and hand sew for a good 80 minutes each way.

I also want to flesh out my late 18th century wardrobe. I've been doing that more than Victorian lately, and I want to keep at it while it holds my interest.

I'm hoping to move sometime in the summer, i.e. between semesters, so I'm not sure how much time I'll have for sewing in general. 2016 is going to be a very busy year in a lot of different ways.
miss_philomena: (yellow court face)
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I'll be doing a proper write-up about my robe à la piémontaise by the weekend. I had a lot of fun making it, and of course a lot of fun wearing it too!
(It's so exciting being able to tag this finished!)
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
"Let there be sleeves."

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The tops are just pinned at the moment. I somehow magically managed to, without actually measuring at any point, make sleeves that fit perfectly into the armhole without any ease or pleating needed. Go me?

PS I love stripes.
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miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
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I swear I wasn't trying to line the stripes up on the side back seams. It just happened.

part three

Feb. 17th, 2014 09:03 pm
miss_philomena: (black and gold)
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 Bodice mockup! I dug out some really random Joann's red tag cotton I have several yards of for reasons unknown, and cut pieces on whichever grainline they fit, which is why the sleeves aren't cut cross. The bodice fits perfectly! I tied my petticoats a little loose by accident, which is why there's a little bit of gaping at the waistline.

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The sleeves, on the other hand, are a little too tight, and managed to be too long as well. To double check the length I just opened part of the seam to get the sleeve on, which is why it looks baggy here. The point of the dart wound up sitting well below my elbow. So I will redraft the sleeve with about 3/4" of an inch extra in width, and about two inches shorter above the elbow. The sleeve cap and below the elbow are fine, so I'll just make the angle down to the elbow a little less extreme.

Next I'm going to do the petticoat and gown skirts before bouncing back up to the bodice. The pleats will be the last step. The Denmark piemontaise appears to show the pleats are sewn at the shoulder. One of the piemontaises in the Imatex collection, on the other hand, clearly shows hooks and eyes where the pleats attach at the shoulder. I'm actually leaning more towards this kind of construction, because when I'm not wearing the robe, as will be the case 99.9% of the time, being able to detach the pleats from the shoulder will keep them from pulling the skirt and lower bodice up while being stored. And lends more weight to my belief that the pleats are sewn to the skirt below the waist. Why else would the top need to be detachable like this, if it was only a cape-like piece? Also, if you look at the outer pleats in the second picture, you can see where the edge rolls in, where to me it appears to connect back to the skirt below the waist.

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Click on these for very lovely hi-res shots, with the hooks and eyes clearly visible at the top of the pleats!
miss_philomena: (mantua cuff)
As much as I really wanted to dive headfirst into all my sewing, I was good and did what really needed doing: new stays. My yellow stays, as wonderfully comfy as they are, are too big. I can lace them fully shut, and still pinch a good inch and a half out of the front while wearing them. So for my new pair (which accidentally matched HSF#3) all I did was lay down my current pair, trace the shape, then take off some width from the front and back, then add in new seam lines. Easy stuff. I didn't shorten the waist because I like where my other pair sit, and I'm somewhat short-waisted already. I patterned these to work for either 1780s with a center front gusset, the way I sewed this pair, or to work for 1790s stuff with bust gussets, based on the 1790 linen corset in Jill Salen's "Corsets".

For this pair I wanted that 1780s "prow" front shape, and put a long gusset in the middle. On the side shot you can see the forward curve of the stays. Making these was quite an adventure, as I used, quite literally, every single kind of boning I had in my house in these stays. The problem of working a) on a deadline, and b) while snowed in repeatedly. The center front and center back bones are 1/2" German plastic whalebone. The rest of it is a mix of 1/4" steel bones, cable ties, and for the longest channels where I didn't have anything else, the same cane I used in my other stays. I hadn't turned down the edges before trying them on, just to make sure everything would work and fit right, but after taking them off I've done the top edge. I'll get to the bottom at some point. I don't think I'll bind or line them before the dinner unless I have extra time at the end.

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I also made myself a new rump yesterday to go under everything. I went by the article [livejournal.com profile] demode wrote for Foundations Revealed, about late 18th century skirt supports. It gives me both hip oomph as well as rear shape, so I'm happy with it.

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(my mirror looks so dirty! Eek!)

The reason I'm going for the rounder look with this, rather than just using pocket hoops as the Denmark piemontaise appears to show, is because I really like the shape of this francaise in the Met's collection, and because having the back shape makes the pleats stand out even further, being further away from the body.

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I'm trying to decide if I should press the pleats down to where they'll attach to the skirts. All of the existing piemontaises show flat pleats, but is that how they were originally made, or is that from storage? I'm not sure.

And to round out this post, yesterday I also draped the bodice pattern, based on the Denmark PDF. Either later today or tomorrow I will cut out a full bodice and sleeve in scrap to make sure it fits, then onto the silk!
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream window)
And so I start my next big project, with 18 days on the clock, to see if it can be done for the Française Dinner on March 1st. A gown I've been planning to make for years. Five and a half years, to be specific. I first made a post(private) about this gown in October of 2008, and it's finally happening.

Robe à la Piémontaise

(Yes, that was indeed worthy of sparkly text. Just because.)

According to "Dress in France in the Eighteenth Century" by Madeleine Delpierre,

The robe à la piémontaise, made fashionable at the time of the marriage of Princess Clotilde of France, sister of Louis XVI, to the Prince of Piedmont, was a variation on the robe à la française: the loose, flowing pleats at the back were added later to form a kind of cape attached behind. [source]

This indicates that the back pleats were attached only at the shoulder and left completely loose the rest of the way down. I'm working primarily from the extant robe à la piémontaise held in the collections of the National Museum in Denmark, which includes a pattern taken from their robe. Their pattern clearly shows where the back pleats rejoin the skirt, and there is a noted and marked seam in the skirt. See look, I drew on the diagram as proof. And to add to that, from the few others I've seen photographs of, if the back hem is visible, there doesn't seem to be a break in the hem in any of them that would indicate there is a separate piece where the pleat 'cape' overlaps the skirt back. More picture analysis and doodles to possibly come at a future date?

But anyway, my goal is to do as faithful a recreation of that dress as possible. I pinned a width of the silk (that will actually be the petticoat when I get to sewing) into the pleat configuration to get an idea of the look, just because, and here it is.

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(Very wrinkly silk: what happens when it accidentally winds up under a large piece of brocade. Good thing I know how to operate an iron. )

The Danish robe is very simple. with trim only along the center front of the bodice, and because my fabric is so bold on it's own, I don't intend to trim it more than that. The only thing I'm a bit unsure of is the sleeve cuffs. Should it have ruffles? I feel like there should be something there, even if it's a narrow lace frill. But that will be decided when I get closer to the end point, I think.

For now I need to focus on the under bits. The 1780s is more of a rounder silhouette than earlier, without the hoops, and more emphasis to the rear, which will make the gap between back and pleats stand out more, so I think I'll make a rump for this, one that adds some width to my hips as well, instead of the solely rear-heavy one I made for my linen round gown last year.

Stay tuned for more robe à la piémontaise progress! Since this is such a rare style, I intend to document as much of my process as possible.

miss_philomena: (bib front)
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The Challenge: #1: Bi/Tri/Quadri/Quin/Sex/Septi/Octo/Nona/Centennial – due 14 Jan. Sew something from __13, whether it be 1913, 1613, or 13BC
Fabric: cotton velvet outer, silk taffeta lining, stiffened felt interfacing for the ha
Pattern: hat: Lynn McMasters' Late Edwardian Early Teens small hat and toqu C. 1909-1916 pattern, purse drafted by myself based on a purse in the Met's collection.
Year: 1913
Notions: thread 18 gauge wire in the hat interfacing, glass & metal beads on the purse (added post-photo)
How historically accurate is it? Apart from using the stiffened felt interfacing rather than buckram I consider the hat as accurate as possible, the purse I consider a reasonable blend of documented processes, materials, and patterning, and is as closely copied from the original as I could, given that the original was entirely beaded all over, and I chose to use velvet and beaded tassels for trim instead.
Hours to complete: 8-10 hours total for both
First worn: I had planned to wear this on the 26th, but the event was postponed
Total cost: The velvet, taffeta, and glass beads were stash, the rest was about $15


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The Challenge: #2: UFO - due Jan 28. Let’s get something off our UFO pile! Use this opportunity to finish off something that’s never quite gotten done, or stalled halfway through.
Fabric: silk dupioni, blue and silver for the first version, rust/copper for the second, finished version.
Pattern: self-drafted from a reticule originally posted on antique-textiles.net, though the page has been taken down since.
Year: 1790-1800
Notions: thread, fusible interfacing, ribbon, gold cord, self-covered botton
How historically accurate is it? I used a fusible interfacing to stiffen the outer silk petals, and it's partially machine sewn. I made the outer petals the way I assume the original had been, based on the photos, and the inner bag is self-lined and constructed as a long tube with the top fold forming the casing for the ribbon, and the bottom edges where turned in and cartridge pleated for shape the bottom.
Hours to complete: the longest part was hand-stitching the gold cord down, so probably 10 hours or so.
First worn: this coming Saturday, hopefully.
Total cost: all stash.
miss_philomena: (pierrot side)
So the stays workshop in Williamsburg this past weekend was awesome. I had fun and I feel like I learned a lot. AND I've got the start of a lovely pair of 1780s stays, and I feel more confidant about drafting up some earlier stays as well. Knowing how they should fit and where they should be was always my biggest stumbling block, after all. I definitely intend to take more workshops with B&T in the future. I also plan to use the same pattern, once I finish the blue stays I started in the workshop, for the yellow silk stays I bought fabric for years ago.

Other news: Apparently the Met's website and Chrome don't get along? Or is that just me? I have no problem browsing the Met in Safari, but in Chrome I get the 'down for maintenance' thing all the time. But anyway. I've already picked out what I'd like to make for the Titanic exhibit at the Franklin Institute in January, though I probably won't start working on it until December. I still like having a plan, though, and this way I can keep an eye out for fabric. This adorable little dress is what I have in mind. I'm trying to decide if I want to keep it black or go with a different, but still dark, color. It'd probably be easiest to find black taffeta and chiffon/gauze that aren't too far off from each other, and I have tons of black velvet ribbon that I can do the edging with. I also have four or five yards of some amazingly gorgeous azure blue silk velvet that I'd like to make a cocoon coat with, and black won't clash with that. But I've got time to make final decisions on that as well~

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Isn't it cute?

yaaaaay

Jun. 20th, 2012 08:49 pm
miss_philomena: (Default)
Finally posted my Dress U pics! It's a combination of my own and ones stolen from others.

I don't have pictures of Friday night and Saturday day for myself, but I did get the rest, so here's the quick list of what I wore:

Saturday Night Titanic Dinner )

Sunday Day: Let Them Eat Crepes & Mad Tea Party )

Sunday Evening: Tiaras and Jampagne )

And that's Dress U for me!
miss_philomena: (1875 train)
I'm so horribly behind with the sewing I need for Dress U. x_x I need to make something for the Titanic dinner, Let Them Eat Crepes, the Gibson girl pool party, and possibly something for the Mad Tea Party if I don't decide to go with my red striped bustle instead. I know what I'm doing for Gibson girl already (something like this), and I've got most of an idea for Titanic as well, but I've planned nothing at all yet for Crepes.

Anyway, Titanic gown link parking:

This is the biggest inspiration so far, I think.

Though this is a strong second place.

This as well

And finally this.

But basically, I've discovered I really like Callot Soeurs gowns a lot. I have four or five other ones of theirs bookmarked as well for this. Also, I want to make a purse like this one, which is also theirs, if I can find a lace that would work.

I think that's all for now....
miss_philomena: (pierrot side)
Is it wrong to plan an outfit around a certain type of hat? More specifically, this type of hat?



It's big and over the top and at the same time simple. I love it. I might even attempt to do it in straw if I have enough narrow braid to do it.

I'll probably go for either a zone front like Hilary Swank is wearing with it, or perhaps some type of round gown. I'm still deciding. It depends on what the stash says to me.
miss_philomena: (yellow court hip)
I hate stays. More specifically, I hate trying to pattern and make them for myself. My lack of proper stays are the reason why I haven't really done any 18th century stuff, despite having lots of plans for them. But I've made three pairs for myself now over the years, and none of them fit well enough to be of any use.

I think I just need a magical stays fairy to come wave a wand and make them for me.
miss_philomena: (strawberries and cream fan)
The Met's website is such an amazing, evil thing, isn't it? xD There are so many things on my someday list from their collection, and I just want to toss up a list so I can remember for myself.

1. Robe à la Polonaise ca. 1787 I love love love the golden yellow damask trimmed with blue taffeta combination. And the shawl collar and ruched oversleeve. I just love the whole thing, though I think when I do make this style I'll make it a bit more fitted than this.

2. Visiting Dress, 1867 It's striped. It's transitional early bustle. It's floofy and over the top. Do I really need to say anything else? :3

3. Dress, 1865-1870 I really like the shape and draping of this skirt. (The Met gave this a range of 1865-70, but I'd definitely put it closer to the end of that than the beginning, given the style of the skirt.)

4. Afternoon Dress, 1870-1875 This is definitely a dress where the fabric makes the gown. But I just love that bright blue in the brocade that's then repeated in the trim.

5. Dress, 1872 I love how light and airy and soft this looks. I really want to make a summer ensemble, with either a printed gauze like this, or just a plain organza.

6. Afternoon Ensemble, 1880-1885 This blue is such a beautiful, rich color, and the brocade, of course, is the perfect highlight with it. And I love all the mix and match pieces and the various ways it can be worn.

7. Dress, 1885-1888 I know [livejournal.com profile] koshka_the_cat is planning on making this, but I've been drooling over this down for a couple months now. The stripes! Who could say no to that?

8. Afternoon Dress, 1912 I want to do the DPP for Your Wardrobe Unlock'd, and while my first thought went to an evening gown, this one with it's deceptively simple lines (and stripes!) is lovely. I think the only thing I'd really change is the neckline. I really, really can't stand high collars, or really anything tight around the neck.

So, I've actually cut down the list from what I'd originally planned, believe it or not. But this seems like a good starting off point. xD

Oh and one last thing! I've made myself a twitter account, if anyone has one and would be interested in following it, though I don't know how often I'll use it.
miss_philomena: (bib front)
So the past couple of weeks I've been feeling costuming burn-out, and for no apparent reason. But that's a bad thing when Costume Con is only a month away. So I figured if I can just knock out something quick and easy I can get myself back on track.

And hey, I think it's working! :3

I'd picked up this kind of waffle-textured-type silk gauze several years ago with the intention of making something like the white organza gowns you see in the 1870s. But after getting it home it then sat in a drawer forever after I realized it was a bit too drapey to use for the crisp style needed for the bustle style. Plus it didn't really want to hold a crease either, probably because it is a textured weave.

But Sunday I had the thought that it'd make a perfect early Regency style dress and got straight to it. XD Sunday I pieced together three panels for the skirt and did a muslin mockup for the bodice, which I also used as the lining. Yesterday I cut out the silk for the bodice and got that pieced together and mounted the skirt on as well. I'm doing a bib-front style, almost exactly like the 1798-1805 gown in Patterns of Fashion 1. I'm a bit eh about the bib for that dress though, with all the tucks going in the same direction, so my first thought was to do more of a chevron style. But when I was flipping through the Kyoto Costume Institute's Fashion for extra inspiration, this dress here caught my eye. I like the slight scoop to the neckline, as well as the gathering under the bust.

I haven't actually done the bib yet, but I realized last night when I was, I'll admit being lazy, fitting the gown over just a bra and tank top, that I really need some type of stays for this. I'm a busty girl, so I need something with support, but I don't particularly like the long typical regency style stays, so I'm going with a pair of short transitional stays, the kind with a gathered cup rather than inset gores. I drafted up a pattern for the back of the stays earlier, and I'll just start with a couple of rectangles for the front to figure out where the cups need to go. For a little bit of extra support I rescued the underwires from one of my bras that's bound for the trash to add to the stays. But actually making the stays is tomorrow's project.

And I noticed there is talk of wearing costume for the KCI tea on the 10th? Looks like I'll be all set. XD

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